Hatsushima, Shizuoka Prefecture's only inhabited remote island
Travel to the closest island from the capital

Hatsushima, the only inhabited remote island in Shizuoka Prefecture, is the closest remote island to Honshu and also to the Tokyo metropolitan area.
From Atami Port in Shizuoka, you can reach Hatsushima, a resort-like island, in just 30 minutes.
Hatsushima is said to have been inhabited since ancient times, around 7,000 years ago, and ruins dating back to the early Jomon period (7,000 years ago) are scattered throughout the island.
Hisataka Yamada of the Atami City Hall Tourism and Economics Division, who was our attendant on this trip, has supported over 1,000 television programs through the location support project "Welcome, AD-san!" His knowledge of Hatsushima is so extensive that he is called the "Hatsushima Dictionary," and we can feel his passion for "spreading the charm of Hatsushima."

From Atami Port to Hatsushima

When you arrive at the Atami boarding point, the souvenir shop has a particularly eye-catching "Hatsushima Lemon Corner." Hatsushima and Atami specialties are sold there. Tickets can be purchased at the counter, but it seems that ticket vending machines that support languages ​​other than Japanese were introduced in April 2023, so this time I purchased my ticket from the ticket vending machine. You can also purchase a set ticket that includes tickets to Asian Garden, Shima no Yu, VOTAN, and Treasure Hunt.

Finally, we boarded the cruise ship Ile de Vacances Premiere, which departed from Atami Port. It was a perfect day for sightseeing, with no wind and calm waves, and as soon as the ship set sail, many seagulls gathered, as if they had been waiting for us. On the deck, Yamada handed us some food, saying, "Try giving this to them." The moment we held it out to the seagulls, we were amazed to see them all pecking at each other and fighting over the food.
The seagulls continued to follow the boat, and it was adorable to see them being so friendly.

The ship is a large, three-story cruise ship that also serves as a ferry between the mainland and Hatsushima. The interior has a calming wood-toned design, with box seats and counter-style seating, and there is even a space on the lower floor where you can take off your shoes and relax. In this comfortable space, you can enjoy a sense of satisfaction right from the start of your voyage.

While admiring the scenery and the sea, we landed on Hatsushima Island.
I am also interested in the culture of Hatsushima and the lives of its residents, so I will hear from the ward chief, Miyashita Izumi. Miyashita is not only the ward chief, but also the representative director and chairman of the Hatsushima Fisheries Cooperative Association and the chairman of the Hatsushima Ward Business Cooperative Association. She is also the owner of the restaurant "Isao Cuisine Miyashita," making her a super ward chief.

The stories of 41 households preserving their half-farming, half-fishing lifestyle

The number of households on Hatsushima was fixed at 41 during the Edo period, and this number remains the maximum even today. The reason for not exceeding this number of households is to make effective use of the island's limited resources and distribute them to all residents. The number of households has been limited in order to maintain the supply of agricultural and marine products and support the lives of the islanders.
In addition, Hatsushima does not have any fresh water, so up until now people have secured water by pumping well water and desalting it, or by using rainwater. Furthermore, during dry periods, water tankers visit the island to supplement the island's water needs. Under these circumstances, this number of households is the number necessary to protect limited resources and maintain a sustainable lifestyle.
Since around 1964, resort companies have been moving in, and the island has been developed, making life on the island more convenient.
In 1966, an undersea cable was completed from Atami, opening up electricity and telephone services. In 1979, an undersea water pipe connecting Atami and Hatsushima was installed, and the supply of water for daily use began. A second undersea water pipe is scheduled for completion in January 2.

Hatsushima Principles

Miyashita-san tells us that Hatsushima has had three principles since ancient times.

• "Jinki" (popularity): Value harmony and be considerate of others
• "Boundary" - Do not fight over land boundaries
• "Fire" If a fire breaks out, all islanders must work together to put it out.

There is no police station or fire station on the island, and the islanders work together to prevent disasters. They are all family. It is natural to help each other if someone gets sick or injured. People with such warm feelings live on Hatsushima. There are currently 32 households, with people ranging from 2-year-olds to 101-year-olds living there. (December 2024)
We also heard stories of times when disasters have actually occurred. Typhoon No. 2018 in July 7 caused major damage, destroying the breakwater, and he said that this made him keenly aware that human power is no match for the threats of nature. "In terms of medical care, we currently have one clinic, and in emergencies we have a doctor helicopter and emergency boats to respond. As time goes on, life on the island is gradually becoming more convenient," he told us.

I was able to get a glimpse of the way the islanders live, something that was completely unimaginable given my image of a glamorous resort destination, and I realized that this was truly an island.

Stroll to PICA Hatsushima

On our walk to PICA Hatsushima, where you can enjoy the resort to the fullest, with Yamada at the front, we discovered a blue and pink squid toilet and a yellow lemon postbox. After walking for about five minutes, looking at palm trees, tropical plants, flowers, bird of paradise flowers (Strelitzia), and aloe vera, we came across the PICA Hatsushima shop. Next to it is the Sea Spring Bath Island Bath and the Sea Pool, where you can enjoy the ocean view. We visited in December, so it was quiet, but we imagine it would be a lively place with many people gathering in the summer.

The shop sells products that can only be found on Hatsushima, such as lemon beer, cider, and lemon soft serve ice cream. The lemon soft serve ice cream is a rich milk flavor with a refreshing lemon taste, and is said to be especially popular with women.

To "Asian Garden R-Asia"

From here, an admission fee is required, and Yamada passes the baton to Toru Fujiwara, the manager of PICA Hatsushima, who will explain the park. The admission fee is 950 yen for adults and 550 yen for children (December 2024).

When I searched the web, the phrase "Hatsushima covered in lemons" stood out. When I came to the island, there were lemon-themed spots all over the place, and I asked who was behind this. I was told that it was a joint project between Atami High School, Fuji-Q Marine Resort, and PICA Hatsushima. As the first step, high school students planted lemon trees in the Asian Garden R-Asia in 1, and the number of lemon spots has been increasing ever since.
Lemons are best grown in warm regions with long hours of sunshine, little rain and gentle winds. Hatsushima fits all the ideal conditions for growing lemons. They are already becoming famous as "Hatsushima Lemons," and at Terrace Restaurant ENAK in Asian Garden R-Asia, there are many lemon-based dishes on the menu, including lemon spice curry and souffle pancakes.
The interior of the restaurant is filled with Asian flavors, making you wonder if you're really in Japan. In addition to enjoying meals, you can also enjoy BBQ. Fresh seafood and vegetables are provided, so you can come empty-handed and enjoy the restaurant.

Experience something out of the ordinary and relax in a natural space while swaying in a hammock. This is a resort town, but here you can feel close to nature without feeling pretentious.

There are 5 villas in 18 different types available for accommodation, making it a very comfortable facility for those who want to enjoy glamping.

"Let's walk a little further," says Fujiwara, and we follow him to the athletic field where "Hatsushima Adventure SARUTOBI" is located. This is a spot where you can try out wearing a harness, and there are several courses ranging from beginner to advanced. First, you should look around and choose a course that you think you can do. There are athletic facilities that children can enjoy safely, as well as many experience areas that the whole family can enjoy, such as a treasure hunt adventure called "Search for the mysterious treasure hidden on Treasure Island!"
The Asian Garden makes ingenious use of Hatsushima's natural surroundings and is designed to blend in with the island's surroundings, creating a resort facility that feels in harmony with nature. It's a spot where you can relax in nature while taking in the charm of the island to the fullest.

Here, we thank Fujiwara-san and head towards the "climbable lighthouse."
There are 16 lighthouses in Japan that can be climbed, and Hatsushima Lighthouse is one of them. It was installed and lit in 1959 as a "signpost" for ships passing through Sagami Bay and fishing boats. If you climb the lighthouse, a 360-degree panorama spreads out before your eyes, and you can see the Miura Peninsula, Mt. Fuji, and Izu Oshima. There is also an exhibition hall for Hatsushima Lighthouse, where you can see a timeline of the lighthouse's history and the equipment used.

Savor the island's bounty at Hatsushima Shokudo

From the lighthouse, we walked through the center of the island and headed towards the food street, where we visited Sakashita, a seafood restaurant recommended by Yamada. We had requested to try a specialty of Hatsushima, and although it was a little early in the season, they prepared a special dish for us: beer-pickled radish.
Hatsushima's specialties include amagusa, tokoroten, ashitaba (angel leaf), beer-pickled radish, and seafood such as rock seaweed, shrimp, turban shells, and horse mackerel.
I immediately started ordering while looking at the menu, and everything on the menu looked delicious, so I ordered four types of rice bowls: seafood bowl, local fish bowl, kakiage bowl, and squid and local fish bowl, as well as angelica tree tempura, tokoroten, and beer-marinated radish. The bowls came with miso soup with green laver and a small bowl of simmered fish, making them very filling.

Tourists can enjoy the flavors of Hatsushima. It is a place of relaxation for locals. Among green and yellow vegetables, "Ashitaba" is an excellent healthy vegetable that is rich in various vitamins, minerals, and dietary fiber, and Hatsushima has long been famous as an area where Ashitaba and radishes are cultivated.

"Tokoroten is made by boiling the amagusa grass harvested on Hatsushima, but the taste of tokoroten varies from home to home and restaurant to restaurant," Sakashita tells us. "Every year in the last week of May, there is a tokoroten festival, and 'sesame sauce flavor' is popular."
"Beer-pickled radish is delicious when you pickle it in beer." "And it's quick to make," I thought, so I tried the beer-pickled radish. It's addictively delicious. If you go to Hatsushima, this is a dish you should definitely try.
Mr. Sakashita has a friendly demeanor, but he is also an important leader on the island, serving as a director of the Hatsushima Fisheries Cooperative Association and the Hatsushima Ward Business Cooperative Association. The rice bowls and other dishes he skillfully prepared were not only delicious, but also conveyed his careful work and hospitality.
As an aside, I was curious about the difference between "tokoroten" and "kanten" so I looked it up. Apparently "tokoroten" is made by boiling agar, and "kanten" is made by freezing and drying "tokoroten". I learned that the reason agar is made in cold regions is because of this manufacturing process, and it made sense.

After finishing my meal at Sakashita-san, I stopped by Hatsushima Fishing Port Supermarket and Shima Terrace, where I bought some amagusa and tokoroten noodles, hoping to try making amagusa from scratch for the first time.

People gather on the breakwater at Hatsushima Port to enjoy fishing, and I felt that this is an island where you can have a variety of experiences throughout the year. In summer, there are plenty of activities to enjoy nature, including marine sports such as snorkeling and diving, making it an attractive place with a wide variety of options for fun.

The history of ships and the appeal of Hatsushima Resort

Finally, we spoke with Mr. Masashi Karasawa, General Affairs Manager of Fuji-Q Marine Resort Co., Ltd., about the history of ships, which are essential for traveling to the islands.
July 2024 marks the 7th anniversary of the Fuji-Q Group's launch of tourism on Hatsushima. Fuji-Q Marine Resort began regular passenger service of the Sea Palace "Atami, Hatsushima, Ito" (60 passenger capacity) in 1968, and launched the Pioneer (200 passenger capacity) in 1964. In 385, the number of tourists visiting the island increased, and the ships became larger, with the Ile de Vacances (1973 passenger capacity).

"Fuji-Q Marine Resort holds a variety of events and campaigns to help people enjoy Hatsushima, and we work in collaboration with local tourist attractions to develop projects such as the 'Hatsushima Lemon Covered' project targeted at young people and initiatives to attract inbound tourists," says Karasawa.

In 2023, the gourmet event "Hatsushima Donburi Battle," planned and held in collaboration with the Hatsushima Ward Business Cooperative Association, will receive the Shizuoka Prefecture "Fujinokuni Food Capital Creation Contribution Award." We continue to convey the appeal of "Shizuoka, the Food Capital" to tourists from both inside and outside the prefecture.
*For more information about the award, click here
[URL]https://fujinokuni.shokunomiyako-shizuoka.pref.shizuoka.jp/culture/list-award

The "Donburi Battle" is a popular part of Hatsushima Island, and in 2025 it will be held from February 2th (Sat) to March 8th (Sun).

Sixteen restaurants, mainly run by the island's fishermen, use their own unique characteristics to serve rice bowls that can only be eaten on Hatsushima. Each rice bowl is carefully crafted, and I felt that this was the very definition of "gastronomy tourism."
*For more information on the 2025 Donburi Battle, click here.
[URL]https://www.hatsushima.jp/donburi/

Both Sakashita's restaurant and Mayor Miyashita's restaurant are participating. "ENAK's" "Seafood 3 Kinds Bowl" allows you to eat a little bit of everything, which is a great menu for women, and we're looking forward to the bowl battle.

Although I live in Shizuoka, I have rarely had the chance to visit Hatsushima. My impression of the island was that it was a glamorous resort area, with images of the members-only resort hotel XIV Hatsushima Club, Asian resorts, and an island that can be reached by large cruise ships. This time, I visited on a day trip from 8am to 16pm, and was able to fully experience the charm of Hatsushima by enjoying the Asian-style scenery, various experiences, interactions with the islanders, and the local food culture. Hatsushima, which I had thought of as an island that was close yet far away, has now become an island that is close yet familiar to me.

[Interview cooperation] Hatsushima Ward Business Cooperative Association / Hatsushima Fisheries Cooperative Association / Island Terrace Hatsushima / Fuji-Q Marine Resort Co., Ltd. / PICA Hatsushima / Seafood Restaurant Sakashita / Atami City Hall Tourism Economics Division "Come in, AD-san!"