A journey of flavors and experiences in Izu - Gastronomy tourism that begins at Zagyoso, where you can savor the land and its people

ABBA RESORTS IZU – Zagyoso is located in Ito City, Izu, a popular tourist destination with easy access, about two hours from the city center.

Located in a corner of the Ukiyama Onsen hot spring resort, a hideaway surrounded by abundant nature, this long-established hot spring inn occupies an area of ​​20,000 tsubo (approx. 19,000 m2). The inn has many repeat customers, including guests from overseas. The essence of its appeal lies in the preservation of the good old Japanese inn culture. This time, we will consider the gastronomy tourism we should aim for through the efforts of this inn, which is based on the concept of "knowledge production for local consumption" rather than "local production for local consumption," and allows visitors to experience the local culture and climate, as well as the attentive hospitality unique to the Japanese people.

"Like sitting and fishing"

"Like sitting and fishing." The name of the inn comes from a Chinese proverb, "Za-mao-gyo (sitting on thatched grass and slowly fishing)."

The idea behind this is to "please relax and enjoy your stay as your heart desires."

Ukiyama Onsenkyo, where Zagyoso is located, is also known as the "Village of Mountain Peach," a quiet villa area surrounded by primeval forests of evergreen trees such as mountain peaches and camphor trees. The only sounds you can hear are the distant chirping of birds and the sound of the waterfall flowing through the garden. The word "tranquility" is appropriate, and the refreshing and serene atmosphere that permeates the entire inn makes you feel like your mind is being released. It's no wonder that the inn has earned a reputation as a hideaway for adults.

There are a total of 27 guest rooms (renovation work is planned to increase this to 33 by early summer next year). In addition to the Japanese-style rooms in the main building, which are charming in the charm and comfort of traditional Japanese architecture, the villa-type rooms, which are equipped with spacious living rooms and roof decks, and offer a private space that feels like a vacation home, are also popular. Some of the rooms allow guests to stay with their pets, which is apparently popular with dog lovers.

Zagyoso was founded in 1968. It started out as a luxury inn with four rooms.

In 26, management was transferred to the Taiwanese company ABBA RESORTS, and after renovations including the addition of a villa building, it reopened in 28 as ABBA RESORTS IZU - Zagyosou.

Inheriting the spirit of hospitality

"The new owner is from Taiwan, but he was a long-time customer of Zagyosou. He loved the original Zagyosou, so his first request was to 'keep the same style.'

The owner's wish is to pass on Japanese culture through the ryokan. Sadly, an increasing number of ryokans are closing, not only in Izu but all over Japan, so we Japanese people are grateful for the desire to pass on the good things about ryokans. So, the only major changes since the management changed are the addition of villas and the addition of French and teppanyaki cuisine to the previously Japanese menu, so that long-term guests don't get bored of the food. Not much else has changed."

This was told to us by Executive Chef Shinji Ido, who also serves as general manager.

"The most important thing about a ryokan is the spirit of hospitality. This may be what makes it different from a typical hotel. Of course, the spirit of hospitality is the same, but I think the most attractive thing about a ryokan is that each group of guests is assigned a staff member who provides attentive service.

Another difference from a hotel stay is that ryokans generally include one night's stay and two meals. I think it's also appealing that you can experience Japanese and Izu culture by enjoying the ryokan's cuisine during your stay.

Also, we aim to provide service that allows foreigners to experience the atmosphere, lifestyle, and culture of good old Japan, rather than a typical Japanese atmosphere. We also want to respond to the desire of our customers to try Izu and Shizuoka cuisine and ingredients, since they have come all the way to Izu.

He continues, saying that this is also related to the concept of gastronomy.

"The most important thing is our connections with local producers. We aim to use local ingredients as much as possible. In particular, we source local fish and seafood mainly from markets on the Izu Peninsula, such as in Ito and Minami Izu. Shizuoka Prefecture is not only rich in seafood, but also in vegetables. Shizuoka Prefecture is long from side to side, right? You can catch pufferfish in the Enshu Nada Sea, and there is tea in the central part. The seasons and types of vegetables and fish that are caught vary depending on the region, so being able to enjoy a variety of things is also one of the attractions.

We chefs also make an effort to visit markets and farmers in person to communicate with them. Working together with local people is one way of passing on culture, and is one of the goals of Zagyoso."

Among them, when asked about the appeal of Ito City, where the inn is located,

"It's a place rich in nature. There's a fish market nearby, so there's an abundance of fresh seafood, and there are hot springs too. It's close to the capital area, so it's easy to visit, which is another attractive feature. And above all, the food is delicious. I used to work in Tokyo, so I used to go to Tsukiji Market (at the time). Ingredients are gathered here from all over Japan and the world, but the freshness is different. There are also ingredients that are only available in this region, and I feel that the cuisine itself is different. The sea, mountains, and fields make it a fascinating place for a chef. It's not just fish, but local chickens like Amagi Shamo chicken are used in Japanese cuisine, and Chef Yamamoto of the French restaurant also uses game meat."

The unique charm of a peninsula with the sea and mountains close by

We also spoke with Chef Shinpei Yamamoto, who is in charge of French cuisine at Restaurant Yamamomo, a restaurant building adjacent to the main building.

"The charm of this land is the unique quality of being a peninsula, with the sea and mountains close by. It's packed with ingredients.

Being so close to the sea and the mountains means that as a chef, I can not only use ingredients, but also think about the environment of the sea and mountains. This includes the fact that in order to keep the sea clean and fertile, we need to maintain the mountains.

For example, the Amagi venison used in the restaurant is from deer that are hunted by hunters to protect the forest from deer and to protect the environment. By properly maintaining the mountains in this way, we can think about how the marine environment is maintained and we can obtain delicious fish.

The Shimabara Peninsula in Unzen, where I used to live, is surrounded by the sea, but also has the mountainous terrain that is unique to Japan, and as a chef, I find it fascinating that there are so many treasures packed into these places."

Before being invited to Zagyoso in 2016, Chef Yamamoto trained at a classic hotel in Unzen, Nagasaki, and before that at the Nasu Highlands in Tochigi. Through these experiences, he developed a sense of value that cuisine should be deeply connected to the local ingredients and climate. His experience traveling to Europe in his twenties and studying cooking in Germany and other places also had a major influence on his cooking.

"A sense of the seasons is also very important. More than 20 years ago, when I was training in Germany, the sense of seasons that I had taken for granted while living in Japan did not exist when living abroad. That is why it is so important for a chef to be aware of the Japanese sense of the seasons, and ingredients that can bring out that sense are also important. I often visit contracted farmers, and I aim to serve dishes that capture the current state of the fields."

Capturing the "now" of the fields. That's a lovely phrase. He also says that there are other things he keeps in mind.

"It goes without saying, but a chef's job cannot be done without ingredients. That's why I have such respect for producers. It's very important to me how to turn the baton of ingredients that I receive from producers into something that will stay in the customers' memories. That's why I work closely with producers, listen to their thoughts, and make sure to put them on the plate when I serve it."

"I want to create food that not only fills the stomach, but also fills the heart," says Chef Yamamoto.

He said that to achieve this, food needs to have a story behind it, and that the chef's role is like an anchor, passing on the baton of a story that began even before the ingredients were received, to the final dish.

However, this baton will be passed on as the story of the customer's life and will remain as a memory. It is no wonder that customers who visit Zagyoso look forward to the food.

"Even if the ingredients are in season, you can't make the same dish twice. Last year was great, but this year it's not. Of course, the opposite also happens. When I tell my customers about these things, they say, 'I'm looking forward to this time next year again.' Then they can come back at the same time and talk about last year. Our space seats around 20 to 24 people, so I can see each customer's face and prepare food just for them, rather than catering to an unspecified number of customers."

Although Chef Yamamoto's cuisine falls within the framework of French cuisine, he does not use much butter or dairy products, which is why customers say his food doesn't leave them feeling heavy the next day. Another feature is that he uses a lot of vegetables.

He sometimes serves classic French cuisine as an event during the Christmas season, but he says that he has had customers say, "That's not Yamamoto's cooking."

"They told me, 'I'm not here to eat this kind of food, I'm here to eat Yamamoto's cooking' (laughs)."

"Just because it's French doesn't mean we use French ingredients, or rely on butter or dairy products. But it doesn't mean we only use high-end ingredients. We combine ingredients to create an explosion of flavor; that's the soul of Western cuisine, French cuisine. On the other hand, Japanese cuisine tends to be more about subtraction. It's more refined.

I use French techniques to combine ingredients to create a single dish, but if I layer them too much, the ingredients will no longer be able to tell the story of the dish. So, with a Japanese sensibility, I eliminate the unnecessary, and complete the dish while carefully examining things in my mind, such as whether I can see the face of the producer or whether I can feel the seasonality of the ingredients.

Perhaps it's the feeling of subtracting after multiplication. Chef Yamamoto's culinary philosophy is "Japanese spirit, Western learning," which preserves the traditional Japanese spirit while learning the excellent knowledge and techniques of the West and harmonizing the two. Rather than traditional French cuisine, Yamamoto-style French cuisine incorporates the climate, culture, history, environment, people and all the stories of the land into each dish and throughout the course, and is the very essence of gastronomy tourism, captivating many customers.

Tea pairing advocate

Tea pairing using Shizuoka tea is also one of the characteristics of Chef Yamamoto's cuisine.

He was recognized for his French cuisine, which makes use of ingredients from the naturally rich Izu Peninsula, and for offering Shizuoka tea pairings and proposing new ways to enjoy cuisine, and was awarded the Bronze Award in the "Cooking Masters" awards, a chef recognition program run by the Ministry of Agriculture, Forestry and Fisheries, last year. He is the second person in Shizuoka Prefecture to achieve this feat.

"Shizuoka is a tea-producing region, so I first started working on this project with the idea of ​​using tea as an ingredient in cooking.

However, as I continued to try it, I realized that tea has a huge range of different flavors, and that the taste of the tea varies greatly depending on the brewing temperature, time, place of origin, condition of the tea leaves, and the producer. With so much diversity, I realized that tea should be drunk as it is.

French restaurants are often visited on special occasions, but the only non-alcoholic drinks available are water or sparkling water. I thought it was a shame that the table would end up looking bland. It would also create a difference between the customers who were drinking wine. When I served Japanese tea in wine glasses at such times, the reaction from the customers was very good.

In order to begin tea pairing in earnest, we didn't rely on Japanese tea instructors or tea experts, but instead our staff compared the tastes over and over again.

At first, French cuisine and Japanese tea were not considered to be compatible, and the chef wondered how to connect these two different cultures, adding Western spices and herbs. However, now he focuses on pairings that bring out the flavor of Shizuoka tea. He changes the tea with each season and each dish. Of course, he still serves dishes that use herbs and spices, but it was a certain encounter that made him decide to pair tea using only tea leaves as much as possible.

"My encounter with Fujieda's Association for Connecting People, Agriculture, and Nature was a shocking experience.

This tea has been cultivated without pesticides by a family called Kinuzuka for nearly 50 years. I've been there a few times, and the tea fields are on an incredible mountain slope. The cold-brewed tea I tried there made me think, "I never knew tea could be this clear and powerful!" I wanted to bring out the power of the tea leaves, so I started looking for producers and teas like that.

Restaurant Yamamomo also hosts popular tea pairing events inviting tea producers. At these events, the restaurant will inform the tea producers of the dishes beforehand, and ask them to choose the tea that will pair with the dishes.

"When we chefs think about tea pairings, we think about the basics of tea pairing, such as matching teas with similar aromas, or conversely, adding flavors that neither tea has to offer to create a single pairing. But tea farmers don't have those same basics; they pair teas intuitively, which often makes me go, 'Wow! That's interesting!'"

Conversely, he also sometimes thinks about dishes to pair with tea.

"Ideally, I would like to purchase all of my tea leaves from farmers who practice sustainable farming. I think it's best to meet the farmers directly and purchase from them, rather than from a typical tea merchant. Shizuoka is home to many different tea producing areas, so it's important to have relationships with a variety of producers so that we can make the most of their unique characteristics.

There's no right or wrong way to brew tea, so I try brewing it for one minute, or 30 seconds. I try brewing it at 50°C, or 70°C. After accumulating this kind of experience for about five years, I've now developed an intuitive sense of what goes well with certain tea leaves. However, unlike wine pairings, there is a big difference in satisfaction with whether or not there is alcohol. But I believe that difference can be bridged by pairing it with food.

Unlike wine, it's difficult to drink five or six cups of tea in a row, but by pairing it with food, you can create a pairing that's delicious to eat, delicious to drink, and also good for your body. That's something I want to continue to convey. Of course, there's the issue of caffeine, so some people don't want to consume too much at dinner. I want to address that by coming up with creative solutions, such as using cold brew to limit the extraction of caffeine."

The news that Shizuoka's tea production volume of crude tea and first-grade tea will be overtaken by Kagoshima Prefecture in 2025, dropping it to second place in the nation, came as a shock to the tea industry. However, as I listened to the story, I thought that this is precisely why it is important to make the most of Shizuoka's unique diversity by focusing on quality and proposing ways to enjoy tea, as Chef Yamamoto has done with tea farmers, rather than focusing on being the number one producer in Japan.

"Healing" Pound Cake

"One of the concepts of my cooking is to become healthy by eating," said Chef Yamamoto.

Kaori Tomizawa, who has worked as a pastry chef for seven years under this chef, has developed a new pound cake using Jerusalem artichoke, which can truly be described as a sweet that will make you healthy while you eat it.

"It all started when the chef and Mr. Kikuta were acquainted and asked me if I could use some of the Jerusalem artichoke powder that they had made."

said Tomizawa.

Kikuta is the representative of Amagi no Mori Kobo, a venison producer in Amagi that Chef Yamamoto mentioned in his story. Not only does he capture and butcher deer to help with forest regeneration, he also works to promote sustainable, regenerative agriculture. Thinning wood produced during mountain management gradually releases CO2 into the air if left unattended, so turning it into charcoal can fix the CO2. He uses this charcoal in abandoned farmland, a carbon-fixing farming method, to grow Jerusalem artichokes.

　"Normally, when you use Jerusalem artichoke, it contains moisture, which is the enemy of baked goods, but because it is in powder form, there was no need to worry about that. The flavor is concentrated and the sweetness is natural, making it very easy to use. Because it is a root vegetable, it has a unique burdock-like flavor, but I tried to make the most of that individuality."

When I think of pound cake, I imagine the dough being dry, but this Jerusalem artichoke pound cake is moist, with a texture similar to that of a financier. I was surprised at how smooth it was when I put it in my mouth. The sticky texture and the earthy aroma that gently wafts up my nose were also impressive. The sweetness was just right, and I could eat several slices without feeling guilty!

By utilizing the natural sweetness of Jerusalem artichoke, the amount of sugar used can be reduced by nearly half, and the inulin contained in the plant apparently slows down sugar absorption. The cake was named "Healing Jerusalem Artichoke Pound Cake" to convey the story and meaning behind its carbon fixation farming method, which "heals" the global environment, and the effects of Jerusalem artichoke can "heal" the sweet cravings of people who are concerned about their blood sugar levels.

Highly recognized for its contributions to health and the environment, it was selected as a "Cooking Masters Brand" in June 2025, which recognizes excellent processed foods.

Izu is also rich in fruits. For example, in Ito you can find citrus fruits such as New Summer Oranges, and if you go a little further south you can find passion fruit in Minami Izu, mangoes and lychees in Kawazu, and more.

We asked Tomizawa about the significance of working as a pastry chef in this area.

"Not just in Izu, but wherever I find fruit or producers that catch my eye, I make it a point to visit them directly. I love hearing about the producers' passion and stories. This began when I started working at Zagyosou. I'm following the example of Chef Yamamoto. By gaining a deeper understanding of the passion behind the produce, I believe I can incorporate a compelling story when I serve it to customers."

Chef Yamamoto will continue to carry on Tomizawa's words.

"By visiting the producers and the land where they are made, I feel like I'm incorporating the scenery I see there into my desserts.

She understands my cooking concept very well, so I can entrust her with the "second chapter" after serving the food to the guests. No matter how satisfying the food I serve, it can be ruined by the final dessert, but she is someone I can entrust with the true anchor of the course. I trust her."

I was taken aback by Chef Yamamoto's answer to my question, "Is there anything I can expect from Tomizawa's unique feminine sensibility?"

"I don't really feel that it's just because I'm a woman. Both chefs and pastry chefs are conscious that the ingredients come first. That's the same for men and women. Producers are also equal regardless of gender. It's important to be able to talk on the same level. I believe that developing each other's strengths and abilities will lead to an improvement in the quality of the restaurant itself."

　Tomizawa also shared the following:

"I'm grateful to my colleagues who work with me. The team atmosphere of supporting each other is transmitted to the food, which leads to customer satisfaction. This makes me very happy and I'm grateful to be able to work every day." It seemed to me that the source of high customer satisfaction lies in the state of mind of everyone who works there.

Hearing people say they'll come again makes it worthwhile

Executive Chef Ido is originally from his hometown of Ito City. Perhaps influenced by the fact that his parents ran a bento box shop, he has loved using the kitchen to cook since he was a child. When he was in elementary school, he was a member of the home economics club, of which there were only two boys. "I was happy to be able to eat the food we made," he said with a smile.

Although these activities have been suspended due to the effects of the COVID-19 pandemic, they are also involved in activities such as teaching Japanese cuisine at local elementary and high schools, and are trying to stay as closely connected to the local community as possible.

"Making dashi from dried bonito flakes in ordinary households is becoming less and less common, so I hope that by experiencing the aroma of dried bonito flakes and dashi, people will become interested in cooking. I would be happy if this inspires more young people to aim to become chefs, and that by honing their skills, they will also discover the joys of working.

For example, at an inn, you may have direct contact with customers. I would like to convey to young people that it is rewarding to hear customers say, "I'll come again" at such times."

Executive Chef Ido says that while it makes him happy when guests say, "The food was delicious, so I'll come again," he is happiest when they say, "This inn was great, so I'll come again."

"I'm the head chef, but cooking isn't something you can do alone; it's a team effort. I'm grateful for all the hard work they do. All the staff, from the chefs, service staff, front desk staff, and even the behind-the-scenes staff like cleaners, treat each and every guest with sincerity and care, which I think is what leads to customers saying, 'I'll come again.'" Incidentally, there are currently 13 kitchen staff, including French cuisine. Apparently, there are around 60 staff working overall. The inn can accommodate around 70 people, but they limit the number of guests to around 40 so that they can provide the best possible service. It's no wonder that such meticulous attention to detail is evident in every detail of the inn.

A stay as an experience

Since the ownership of Zagyosou changed, the number of customers from overseas, especially Taiwan, has increased. Is there a difference in their reactions compared to Japanese customers?

　"Many of our guests from overseas want to experience Japanese culture and eat Japanese food. However, some stay for long periods of time, such as two weeks or a month, so they are happy to have options other than Japanese cuisine.

Also, many of the guests who stay here are interested in learning more about Japanese culture, so it seems like they place a lot of importance on things like the building, the interior furnishings, the tableware and presentation of the food, and so on."

Popular with such guests are the several Japanese cultural experience programs available. This inn offers a unique way to spend time, allowing you to experience and learn about Japanese culture, such as tea ceremony and incense ceremony, and enjoy a moment that uses all five senses.

Particularly popular are the scented sachet making and Japanese tea making experiences. Currently, most of the experiences can be done within the facility, but in the future, they are planning to offer experiential tours with local guides, such as visits to the wasabi fields in Nakaizu and the natural beauty of the Izu Peninsula.

>>Zagyosou Instagram

It seems that guests visiting the inn will have more opportunities than ever before to come into contact with the history and culture of the region, as well as the people who live there.

Zagyoso is an inn where you can experience carefully selected ingredients, the stories behind them, and the uniquely Japanese spirit of hospitality. We are sure that this will serve as a gateway for even more people to travel to the Izu Peninsula, Shizuoka Prefecture, and Japan in the future. We look forward to seeing what new encounters and experiences this further "deepening" will produce.

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ABBA RISORTS IZU Zagyosou

413-0232 

1741 Yahatano, Ito City, Shizuoka Prefecture
TEL：0557-53-1170
Toll Free: 0800-888-1168
https://zagyosoh.com/

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Finally, we asked Executive Chef Ido, who is a local, about his favorite views in Izu that he recommends you visit.

"I love the view of Mount Fuji and Suruga Bay from the Izu Skyline. You can see all the way to Shizuoka City across Suruga Bay. I pass through there on my way to and from work, and I also drop in on my days off.

The night view is also beautiful. And whenever I see Mt. Fuji, I think, "Wow!"

It's a view that we would love for many people to see, not just our guests staying overnight."

The Izu Skyline is a driveway that runs vertically through the Fuji, Hakone, and Izu National Park area, from Atami Pass to the Amagi Plateau.

You can ride while enjoying views of Sagami Bay, Suruga Bay, Mt. Fuji, etc. There are viewpoints and rest areas along the route, so you can take your time to enjoy the magnificent scenery, and the exhilaration of riding through the great outdoors is also an attraction.

Experience the rich nature of Shizuoka Prefecture, blessed with the sea, mountains, and satoyama, and enjoy views that will make you think about the ingredients that have been nurtured thanks to these blessings. Enjoy your drive without getting too captivated by the scenery.

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伊豆スカイライン

https://siz-road.or.jp/road/izusk

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Date of coverage: July 2025, 10
Writer: Gohantsubu Labo Aoki Rika
Photo: Yoshihiko Konan Photo provided by: ABBA RISORTS IZU Zagyoso, Shizuoka Prefectural Road Corporation