Protecting and Passing Down the Pride of Our Hometown - Morimachi's Jiro Persimmons, Presented to the Imperial Family
Morimachi, the Little Kyoto of Enshu, is a charming town surrounded by small mountains on three sides and with the Ota River flowing through the middle.
As autumn deepens and the sounds of festival music can be heard all around the town, the local specialty Jiro persimmons begin to take on vibrant colors. It's the season for traditional festivals and Jiro persimmons, and it's an exciting time for everyone in Morimachi.
Jiro persimmon, one of the most well-known varieties of sweet persimmon, is native to Morimachi, Shizuoka Prefecture. The original tree, said to be 160 to 180 years old, is still carefully protected and cultivated by the people of the town. This time, we will introduce the history of Jiro persimmon, which started as a single young tree and became a gift for the Imperial Family, and the story of the people who protect and pass down this persimmon.
"Thank you, Haraki-san!" The ceremony began with words of gratitude.
November 11th. Under a clear blue sky, the Jiro Kaki Log Harvest Thanksgiving Ceremony and the Jiro Kaki Wine Completion Prayer Ceremony were held.
Red and white curtains are stretched around the Jiro persimmon tree, an altar is decorated with sakaki branches and autumn fruits, and a formally attired priest is seen.
The ceremony began in a very solemn atmosphere with a loud "Thank you, Bara-san!" from Sakakibara, chairman of the Morimachi Jiro Kaki Bara Tree Preservation Society.
From the very start of the ceremony, it was clear to see how much the people of Morimachi cherish Jiro persimmons.
The ceremony was held to honor and give thanks for the existence of the Jiro persimmon tree, a natural monument designated by Shizuoka Prefecture, in Mori Town, to pray for the permanent preservation of the tree, and to further promote regional development through Jiro persimmons. The speeches given by the guests in attendance were also very enthusiastic, and filled with love for Jiro persimmons.
Guests picking fruit from the logs. The fruit is also used to make the local specialty, "Jiro Persimmon Wine."
This year marks the 111th Imperial Offering
After the ceremony, I accompanied him to the home of Mr. Yoshimi Ozawa, chairman of the JA Morimachi Jiro Persimmon Division.
On this day, the Jiro persimmons to be presented to the Imperial Household were being harvested and packed, and it was a very busy day for Chairman Ozawa, who attended the ceremony after completing the shipment.
The Jiro persimmons to be presented must be 260L size and over 2g, so after harvesting, they are weighed and sorted one by one. The Jiro persimmons harvested by 1 farms in the town are further selected, and this year 14 persimmons were presented. They were delivered to the Imperial Household Agency the next day.
"I'm relieved that we were able to ship the donation persimmons safely again this year. This year marks the 41th since the first donation in 111. The first donation was on November 11th, so there are seven "11s" in a row, which makes me feel like it's a good omen."
We asked Chairman Ozawa about the characteristics of Jiro persimmons.
"Jiro persimmons are flat and a little rough in appearance. They have four vein-like lines on their skin. The flesh is firm and has a crispy texture. Compared to Fuyu persimmons (which, along with Jiro persimmons, are a representative variety of sweet persimmons), they contain less juice, but with a sugar content of nearly 4 degrees, they have a rich, lingering sweetness."
When picking persimmons, check the stem and bottom. We recommend ones with tightly squeezed bottoms.
It's true that the sweetness of Jiro persimmons is richer than other sweet persimmons. But it's not cloying, with a sticky sweetness that lingers in your mouth. It's more moist than juicy. And it definitely has a crunchy texture! There may indeed be a difference between Jiro persimmons and Fuyu persimmons, which are also sweet persimmons.
Of course it's delicious just as it is, but I like to slice or dice it and make a salad with prosciutto etc. The nice texture and sweetness of the dish add a nice accent to the salad.
When I asked if there was any connection between persimmon cultivation and the climate of Morimachi, I was told that the abundant groundwater from the Ota River system that runs through the town, and the sandy soil, may be suitable for cultivating Jiro persimmons.
Drainage and sunlight may also play a role. Even persimmon trees that are descendants of the same original tree will have slight differences in taste depending on where they are grown.
Of course, it also depends on the weather that year.
This year's Jiro persimmons were affected by the intense heat of the summer and damage caused by stink bugs, and although there were concerns about the yield, they are growing well and the yield is higher than last year. However, the Jiro persimmons on the trees were significantly affected, with many of the fruits falling off. The ceremony on this day also involved picking fruit from the logs of Ichiki Jiro persimmons, a quality-improved variety.
"But my field didn't have any damage from stink bugs. It was because I had a secret weapon. I tried it out in my field this year and found that it was effective, so I will share the information with the Persimmon Committee. With this, I think other fields will be fine next year too."
The secret weapon that Chairman Ozawa showed us was dried starfish powder from Hokkaido. He happened to be listening to a radio program that introduced the powder, saying it was effective against pests such as stink bugs and slugs, as well as damage caused by wild boars and crows. He immediately ordered some, put it in a net and hung it from a persimmon tree, and it was surprisingly effective.
"Stink bugs live on the stem, so when identifying them, check the stem first. If they are infested, the fruit will become bumpy. A good persimmon has a tightly squeezed bottom, not open at the base."
"Also, this year a really good chemical was discovered. Not only does it disinfect and prevent disease, but it also seems to have the effect of making the persimmons sweeter, so maybe next year we'll see even better results."
Yoshimi Ozawa, chairman of the persimmon division of JA Morimachi Jiro, guided us around his home.
His love for Jiro Kaki is apparent from the way he talks with a happy smile on his face. Chairman Ozawa is now 77 years old, but he is very enthusiastic about research. His daily efforts and constant updating of information are also impressive.
"There is a saying that goes, 'When persimmons turn red, doctors turn green.' Persimmons are rich in nutrients. Maybe that's why I don't catch colds very often. I think I can hang in there for a while longer."
The Jiro persimmon tree planted in the garden of his home was grafted from an original tree and is about 120 years old. It is still going strong, and this year about 1 persimmons were harvested from one tree. I hope that in the spirit of this vibrant persimmon tree, delicious Jiro persimmons will continue to grow for many years to come.
By the time this article is published, the season will already be over, but Chairman Ozawa's Jiro persimmons will be shipped to Mori no Ichi and Miya no Ichi in Mori Town.
However, Morimachi's Jiro persimmons are very popular not only with tourists but also with local residents. If you let your guard down and arrive in the afternoon because it's a weekday, you may find that they are already sold out. Next year, I'll have to get up a little earlier to go out!
Jiro persimmon? Or Jiro persimmon?
By the way, have you noticed that "Jiro Kaki" and "Jiro Kaki" are written using different kanji?
This is not a translation error.
Perhaps the variety is more commonly known as "Jiro."
Currently, the largest number of shipments come from Toyohashi City in Aichi Prefecture, where the persimmon is shipped under the name Jiro Kaki.
However, the JA Morimachi Kaki Division and the Morimachi Jiro Kaki Log Preservation Society decided to standardize the name to "Jiro Kaki" as a sign of their gratitude and respect for Matsumoto Jiro, the discoverer, in order to promote and brand the birthplace of Jiro Kaki. This was in 20. Until then, "Jiro" and "Jiro" were mixed up within the town.
Moreover, as a natural monument designated by Shizuoka Prefecture, it is listed as "Jiro Persimmon."
This is because when it was designated in 19, it was registered as "Jiro."
The Jiro persimmon wine for which the completion ceremony was held is brewed using the fruit of this persimmon tree, so the name of the wine is deliberately named after the character "Jiro." (The name of the wine in this article also uses the character "Jiro.")
By the way, what does it mean that Jiro persimmons are native to Morimachi?
We were able to speak to someone knowledgeable about the item, including how it came to be presented to the Imperial Family.
Jiro persimmons loved by Emperor Meiji
Around the end of the Tenpo era (1844), a farmer from Morimachi named Matsumoto Jiro discovered a young persimmon tree on the banks of the Ota River that runs through the town. He brought it home and planted it at his home, which is said to be the beginning of the persimmon tradition.
(There are also other theories, such as that it was found on the edge of a rice paddy near the Ota River.)
The persimmons that grew and bore fruit were less bitter and sweeter than the varieties cultivated nearby at the time, so they gained a reputation and spread through grafting. At first they didn't have a name, but they were apparently called "Jiro's Persimmon," "Jinro Persimmon," "Jinro," and so on, after the name of the person who discovered them, Jiro.
The original tree was thought to have been destroyed in a fire in 2, but it sprouted the following spring and bore fruit again a few years later. Strangely enough, the flesh was finer and sweeter than before the fire, with fewer seeds and a more delicious persimmon. Its deliciousness gained a reputation and it spread through grafting. It was introduced in Nodan, the journal of the Teikoku Nouka Ichi Kyokai, a private agricultural organization with an office in Morimachi, and an early-ripening variety was also created (Ichiki-kei Jiro persimmon, which is said to be the variety mostly grown nationwide today), and Jiro persimmons became known as a specialty of Morimachi.
On November 41, 11, Emperor Meiji stayed in Shizuoka City during his visit to Nara and Hyogo.
At that time, Suzuki Totaro of Mori Town requested the presentation of Jiro persimmons through the then governor of Shuchi County, and when the governor offered them to the deceased as a substitute for sweets, the deceased was so pleased that he even asked for more.
He must have really liked them, as there is a record that he purchased 500 of them on his return to Tokyo.
Since then, excluding declines due to the death of Emperor Meiji, the outbreak of war, and Emperor Showa's illness, this year marks the 111th time that a donation has been made.
By the end of the Meiji period, the Jiro persimmon, native to Morimachi, had gained nationwide recognition as a superior variety comparable to the Fuyu persimmon, a representative sweet variety.
However, due to food shortages during the war, wheat, rice, and potatoes became the primary crops rather than persimmons, and many persimmon fields disappeared.
"We must not allow even these precious logs to be cut down," and in 19 the tree was designated a prefectural natural monument and protected. This strongly demonstrates the strong will of the people of Morimachi to "protect the Jiro persimmon logs," even during times of wartime when the nation was in danger of collapse, and how Jiro persimmons were already a source of pride for the town.
The Jiro persimmon tree survived the war safely, but as time passed and the Heisei era began, the tree was facing a serious crisis.
The Crisis of Jiro Persimmon Logs
The tree in the back is a Jiro persimmon tree that is said to be 1 to 160 years old. It stands as if protected by the persimmon trees of the children's generation.
In 7, a hollow was discovered in the trunk of a log.
Treatment by an arborist was ineffective, and the tree reached a critical state by 14. The tree had been severely weakened by the extremely dry summer that year, and the hollowing out of the tree had progressed year by year. Furthermore, parts of the trunk had turned reddish brown, and tissue had begun to die.
With the advisory of Takeda Koji, who was then the head of the Seien Branch of the Shizuoka Prefecture Citrus Research Station, the team worked to restore the tree's vigor, and in 16 the Jiro Kaki Log Preservation Society was established.
Documents state that the association was founded out of a desire to "express gratitude that in the event that the log should die, many of the people involved in the town should be there to see it through," and even more importantly, "to fulfill the strong wish of the many townspeople to revive the log at all costs."
"We must look after them with gratitude" - such strong and loving words. My heart was warmed as I read the materials I borrowed.
A commemorative magazine compiling valuable materials was published in 10, the 26th anniversary of the preservation society's founding.
After the preservation society was established, the members came together to manage the logs and restore their vigor, and have been carrying out treatments to restore the vigor of the trees and managing them throughout the year. Without the daily watchfulness and efforts of the members of the preservation society, the life of this unique persimmon tree may have ended there.
A treasure to be passed on to the future
We spoke with Mr. Sakakibara (left), chairman of the Morimachi Jiro Kaki Log Preservation Society, and Mr. Inaba Yusuke, chief of the Social Education Division of the Morimachi Board of Education.
Mr. Yoshitomo Sakakibara, who currently serves as the chairman of the Morimachi Jiro Kaki Log Preservation Society, has been involved with the society since its inception. He also wrote the statement of intent for the preservation society, which begins with the sentence, "For those of us who live in Morimachi or are from Morimachi, the Jiro Kaki, which bears red fruit in the fall and stands out against the music of festivals, is our hometown." (Original text)
They explained that because of the strong love they have for Jiro persimmons, a symbol of their hometown, they are now concerned, 20 years after the preservation society was founded.
"Jiro persimmons are now also grown in China, and the neighboring city of Toyohashi is known as a major production area.
However, the only Jiro persimmon tree in the world is in Mori Town. It is a treasure and an asset for Mori Town that cannot be regained if lost. But for the townspeople, it has become a "natural sight." Are they proud of Jiro persimmon as a local specialty? I feel like they don't understand the importance of the fact that the only Jiro persimmon tree in the world still remains, is alive, and is bearing fruit.
That's why we feel it is important not to end our activities in preserving the logs, but to pass them on to the younger generation and children."
Yusuke Inaba of the Mori Town Board of Education's Social Education Division nodded in agreement with Chairman Sakakibara's words and continued.
"The lifespan of a persimmon tree is said to be about 100 years. Therefore, when the hollowing was discovered, it may have been nearing the end of its lifespan. However, it has made a remarkable recovery thanks to the guidance of Professor Takeda and the efforts of everyone in the preservation society. In good conditions and with good care, some persimmon trees can live for over 300 years. Morimachi's Jiro persimmon is still 180 years old, and we need to protect and nurture it for even longer into the future as a treasure of the town."
What we want to protect and nurture is not just the life of the Haraki Jiro persimmon tree, but also our local love and pride for our hometown, Morimachi.
Currently, Morimachi is actively encouraging the next generation of children to become involved with Jiro persimmon trees, with third-graders at elementary school learning about Jiro persimmons and third-graders at Asahigaoka Junior High School developing products using Jiro persimmons. In addition, the town is also promoting Jiro persimmon wine, which will mark its 3th year of production and sale this year, and planting young Jiro persimmon trees at the Shin-Tomei Morimachi PA.
Cultivation of Jiro persimmons began from a young tree that was discovered by chance. The next generation of Jiro persimmons, which were grafted from that original tree, have spread throughout Japan and the world. Just as this is how we hope that the pride in our hometown will be passed down to the next generation through Jiro persimmons.
Gastronomy tourism allows you to experience the local ingredients, climate, history, and culture. One of the best parts of it is eating delicious food. From here, we would like to introduce you to a taste of Morimachi's proud product, Jiro persimmon.
Jiro Persimmon Wine
The first thing we would like to introduce is "Enshu Morimachi Jiro Kaki Wine," for which a completion prayer ceremony was held at the beginning of this article.
It is made using 100% Jiro persimmons from Morimachi, including the fruit harvested from the logs. This year marks the 25th anniversary of its launch, making it a long-selling product.
When they were thinking about how they could create a new specialty product that would utilize the ingredients of the town's specialty Jiro persimmons, they learned that food culture began with alcohol, and that alcohol has played an important role in relaxing life. They also learned that wine is one of the most widely consumed alcoholic drinks in the world, so they decided to make wine.
Persimmons have been one of the fruits most loved by Japanese people since ancient times, and dried persimmons are said to be the origin of Japanese sweets.
"Dried persimmons are the best for sweetening Japanese sweets."
There is a saying in the world of Japanese sweets. It means that dried persimmons are used as the standard for sweetness in Japanese sweets.
The sweetness of Jiro Kaki Wine was also thought up with this phrase in mind.
When I tried it, although it was a sweet wine, it had a clean, refined sweetness that made it easy to drink.
It seems like it would be better to drink it as an aperitif rather than with a meal, but it would also be good as a dessert wine. It's also good to drink it on the rocks with ice, or mixed with soda for a cocktail.
In addition to drinking it, you can also pour it over vanilla ice cream, or onto Baumkuchen or pound cake to make a savarin-style dessert that is not only sweet but also has a slight astringency, making it an adult dessert.
The wine is produced by Manns Wine Co., Ltd. in Yamanashi Prefecture, the birthplace of wine production in Japan.
Director Tsuyoshi Matsumiya was in attendance at the ceremony, so I had the opportunity to speak to him.
When I asked him, "I don't think there is much wine made from persimmons on the market, so have you encountered any difficulties in producing it?" he nodded vigorously as he answered.
"Unlike grapes, persimmons are a fruit with little water content, so even with our wine-making know-how, it was very difficult. Also, acidity is important in wine. A slight acidity balances the taste and makes it more delicious to drink. But Jiro persimmons are characterized by their sweetness. Naturally, they are grown and harvested so that they have no acidity, so this was also a very difficult challenge, but we thought about it in our own way and created a wine that is not just sweet but also has a balanced flavor.
The sweetness and size of the persimmons vary from year to year. Although we have accumulated know-how over the past 25 years, every year is a new challenge.
But we will continue to work hard to deliver delicious wines this year as well."
Manns Wine is sometimes commissioned by other regions to make wine using various specialty fruits, but these often do not last long and production is discontinued after a few years. However, Morimachi's Jiro persimmon wine has become a long-lasting specialty product, according to the winery.
Aside from the deliciousness of the wine, I believe this is due to the deep and passionate love that the people of Morimachi have for Jiro persimmons.
This year's Jiro Kaki Wine will be available for sale from December 12th at liquor stores in the town, as well as at 19 locations in the town, including Kotomachi Yokocho and Acty Mori. We're looking forward to seeing what this year's wine will be like.
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Enshu Morimachi Jiro Kaki Wine Contact Information
Enshu Morimachi Jiro Persimmon Wine Promotion Council
Morimachi Chamber of Commerce
[Address] 20-9 Mori, Morimachi, Shuchi District, Shizuoka Prefecture
[Business hours] 8:30-17:15
[Closed] Saturdays, Sundays, holidays, New Year holidays
[TEL] 0538-85-3126
[URL]
https://www.mori-shokokai.jp/
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Making the most of the town's specialty! Jiro persimmon shaved ice
Next, we would like to introduce the rare Jiro persimmon shaved ice.
I visited Ota Tea Shop, located near Oguni Shrine, one of Morimachi's most famous landmarks, in early September, when the summer heat was still lingering. The shop's landmark is a large red teapot.
During the COVID-19 pandemic, many people ate their treats in their cars, so the containers were changed to one that would prevent the generous amount of syrup and ice from spilling.
Actually, I am one of those people who are addicted to this Jiro Kaki Shaved Ice. To be honest, I was a little hesitant when I ordered it for the first time. But once I tried it, I was captivated by the unique taste.
The thick persimmon syrup looks like the espuma type that has been popular for a while now (espuma is Spanish for foam, referring to shaved ice topped with mousse-like syrup), but it is the natural thickness of the persimmon.
At first bite, it has a vague sweetness, similar to the taste you get when eating a persimmon, although this may not be the best way to describe it.
You might not think it's overly sweet or delicious, but the deliciousness will gradually seep into your mouth.
Thanks to the soft, elegant and gentle sweetness that is unique to persimmons, you won't get tired of eating it, even if you eat two or three bites.
In fact, the more you eat it, the more you'll become addicted to the deliciousness.
As you continue to eat, you'll be surprised to find frozen persimmons and vanilla ice cream. This also changes the flavor. The balance is well thought out, so you won't get bored of eating it until the very end.
Jiro Kaki Shaved Ice started about 20 years ago.
"Since Morimachi is blessed with the famous Jiro persimmon, we want to make the most of it."
This was the idea of our then-president (now chairman), an idea man.
However, the task of making the syrup is tough! They said that it took a lot of trial and error before they were able to create a syrup that they were happy with.
It is a popular item, with 1 cups sold per season, and many repeat customers eagerly wait for it every year.
We've even had people ask, "Has persimmon shaved ice started yet this year?"
I understand, because I come here to eat at least once a season.
However, when the shaved ice season usually begins in June, the harvest of Jiro persimmons has not yet begun.
So when persimmons harvested in the fall become available, they make syrup for shaved ice in preparation for the next summer.
The syrup is made using only Jiro persimmons and molasses from Morimachi. The syrup is made to bring out the best of the natural flavor of the Jiro persimmons. The sweetness of the persimmons varies from year to year, so changing the amount and ratio of molasses is a difficult task to achieve the same flavor.
Sales end when the syrup runs out, so this year's last day of sales was in early September when we visited. (Other shaved ice flavors are usually sold until the end of September, depending on the remaining heat of the year.)
I've been looking forward to Ota Teahouse's shaved ice every year since I first had it about 20 years ago, and it seems like the fluffiness of the ice, the deliciousness of the syrup, and the bowls it's served in are all improving every year.
Starting next season, they will be improving their ice-shaving machines, which will make the ice fluffier and easier to melt in your mouth, so I can't wait for next season.
It's already winter. The shaved ice is no longer on sale, but the tea, seasonal Japanese sweets, and onigiri lunch sets are all very popular. The wild yam lunch that starts in mid-November is also very popular every year.
Also, the deliciousness of the tea that you can enjoy for free is something that is unique to Ota Tea Shop.
There are many kinds of hot and cold tea available, and when you try to put away your teacup they will notice and call out to you. The staff are full of consideration and service to make customers happy.
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Ota Tea House
[Address] 3822 Ichinomiya, Morimachi, Shuchi District, Shizuoka Prefecture
[Business hours] 9:00-16:00 (Lunch 11:00-13:30)
[Closed] Tuesdays, lunch is closed on Tuesdays and Wednesdays *May change depending on the season
[TEL] 0538-84-2020
[URL]
https://lp.otachaten.com/
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As you may know, Morimachi is one of my favorite towns, as I go to Ota Teahouse every year to eat their shaved ice. I have had the opportunity to visit the town several times a year, both for work and for personal reasons.
However, I have always thought that, despite being a local specialty, there are no products made with Jiro persimmons or stores where you can eat Jiro persimmons.
So this time, even though I knew it was a bit of a stretch to ask, I decided to ask two stores for help.
"Could you please create something new using Jiro persimmons?"
Next, we will introduce
"I think Jiro persimmons taste best when eaten raw."
This is a new dessert that was created in response to everyone's unanimous request.
Taste the new "Jiro Kaki Pudding"
You can experience making new sweets using Jiro persimmons at Nakajimaya Confectionery, a shop in Morimachi that has been in business for three generations.
The shop offers a wide variety of sweets for every season, but in autumn its Shinkuri Mushi Yokan, made with plenty of new chestnuts from Morimachi, is especially popular.
"Since we have the specialty Jiro persimmon, I wanted to make a sweet using it, but I hadn't tried it until now.
That's because persimmons are a difficult fruit to make into sweets. Persimmons have a gentle and refined sweetness, so they don't have any distinctive punch, and it was difficult to make something that would make sense to use persimmons in. To be honest, I thought they tasted best just as they were (laughs). But one of our popular summer products is a pudding topped with grapefruit jam, and I thought it would be interesting to combine persimmons with that pudding.
This was told by Nakajima Motoi, the third generation owner of Nakajimaya.
The shop's popular product, "Rich Crown Melon Roll," won the gold medal at the "Fujinokuni New Product Selection" in 2010. Nakajima was also selected as a "Fujinokuni Food Capital Creation Worker" in 2011.
"The jam used in my grapefruit pudding is made by a fruit farmer I know. I asked him if he could make jam using Jiro persimmons this time, and he agreed to try it.
The jam is made with Jiro persimmons, lemon juice, and organic sugar. Persimmons and sugar alone won't make jam, so we need pectin to thicken it and solidify the moisture, so we also add lemon juice, but the amount is difficult. If we use too much lemon juice, the lemon flavor is too strong and the delicate flavor of the persimmon doesn't come out.
Mayumi, the young proprietress who worked closely with fruit farmers to make Jiro Kaki jam, told us about the difficulties they faced in developing their new product, "Jiro Kaki Pudding."
I immediately tried the freshly finished Jiro Kaki Pudding.
At first bite, the sourness of the lemon is definitely stronger than the flavor of the persimmon.
However, the aroma and flavor that wafts out is definitely that of persimmon!
The sweetness that slowly spreads across your tongue is also exquisite. Ah, this is definitely the taste of Jiro persimmon.
Under the persimmon jam is a smooth and creamy pudding. It has less cream than the one sold all year round, and is less sweet, giving it a refreshing finish that complements the gentle sweetness of the persimmon. The sweetness of the persimmon and the pudding was delicious and made me feel warm and gentle.
The jam is made once Jiro persimmons start to become available, so it will also only be sold for a limited time, but they are planning to have a special sale around the New Year period.
Persimmons have long been considered a lucky charm, as persimmons sound similar to the Japanese word for "kaki" (meaning "good fortune coming"). They are also sometimes used as a motif for increasing financial luck, as the word pun on the word "kaki" is used to mean "raking up" money.
Persimmons are rich in nutrients such as vitamin C, beta-carotene, and dietary fiber, and are said to be effective in boosting the immune system, improving intestinal function, preventing hangovers, and preventing colds.
It seems auspicious to eat Jiro Kaki Pudding during the New Year holidays to bring good health and fortune.
The third-generation owner, Motoi Nakajima (left), and the young female owner, Mayumi. Their friendly service is one of the restaurant's charms.
Originally it specialized in Japanese sweets, but the third generation owner also trained in Western sweets, so in addition to traditional Japanese sweets like nerikiri and umegoromo, the store also offers Western sweets like roll cakes and cream puffs. One of the charms of Nakajimaya is that there are many sweets that combine the best of both Japanese and Western sweets.
In addition to regular customers from within the town, there are also many customers who come from far away, such as Hamamatsu City and Shizuoka City.
In addition to the delicious sweets, another attraction is the cheerful and friendly service provided by the Nakajima couple.
I think that there are many customers who come to see your smiling faces, as well as myself.
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Confectionery chef Nakajimaya
[Address] 1555-2 Mori, Morimachi, Shuchi District, Shizuoka Prefecture
[Business hours] 8:00-18:00
[Closed] Wednesday
[TEL] 0538-85-2310
[URL]
https://nakajimaya.buyshop.jp/
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Enjoy Jiro persimmons at a French restaurant
"Could you please come up with a menu using persimmons?"
Another restaurant that responded to our unreasonable request was French restaurant Noyau.
The store opened in November 2023 and just recently celebrated its first anniversary.
A cute house stands alone on a small hill overlooking the idyllic rural landscape.
Before the shop was built, this land was overgrown with trees and grass, and I was surprised to hear that they started by clearing the land themselves.
Now it seems to have completely blended into the Satoyama landscape.
Owner chef Furuki Daisuke (right) and his wife Seiko.
We were welcomed by the owner and chef, Daisuke Furuki and his wife, Seiko.
In fact, neither of them are from Morimachi, nor do they have any relatives there. So why did they decide to open a shop here?
"Simply put, it's a case of J-turn. (J-turn is when someone who was born and raised in a rural area moves to a different area to work after working in the city or elsewhere.) I'm originally from the neighboring town of Hamakita, so I'd only come here to play as a child. My wife is from Kagoshima, so we didn't know Morimachi at all."
Daisuke discovered French cuisine while working part-time during his university days, and after graduation he decided to pursue a career in cooking and went to France. He spent eight years in Paris and Burgundy. It was in France that he met his wife, Seiko. At the time, Seiko was also studying abroad in Paris to study composition.
After returning to Japan, he worked as executive chef at a restaurant in Umeda, Osaka, and married Seiko, who had returned to Japan earlier.
When we first started looking for a location to open our own store about 7 or 8 years ago, Morimachi was one of the locations we considered.
"If I was going to have a restaurant, I wanted to serve food in a place where people could not only eat, but also see, hear, touch and experience everything. This restaurant has made that a reality."
There were several potential locations, but the people at Mori Town were helpful and diligent in searching for land, says Seiko.
"Through my many visits, I've become friends with the local people. The owner of the land owns the field in front of the restaurant, and he told me he would be happy if I used the vegetables he grows. The people I met were also very happy that I was opening a restaurant, as there aren't many restaurants nearby. Their support and encouragement have brought me to where I am today."
He moved here three years ago and opened his shop in November of last year.
Their children, now 8 and 6 years old, have grown into fine "forest kids" who love festivals.
Outside the large windows spreads a tranquil rural landscape. Many guests sit side-by-side to enjoy the view.
It's been exactly one year since the opening, and the four seasons have finally gone through a full cycle.
Seiko told us that the view from the large window showed her many different sights.
Trees dyed in autumn leaves, trees withered in winter, cherry blossoms, rice fields filled with water, growing rice plants, ears of rice swaying gently, sometimes rustling like waves, the sky and sunsets that change from moment to moment, the sounds of cicadas and other insects.
"Some customers come back again and again to enjoy the view from this window through all four seasons."
Just as the couple had envisioned, it has become a place where people can feel the changing seasons, take their time, chat, and enjoy the occasional music.
Huh? Sometimes music?
That's right. During lunch time, Seiko-san serves the food by herself, so it's hard to find time, but during cafe time, you can listen to Seiko-san, who is also a pianist and composer, play the piano.
On occasion, they would surprise customers by playing birthday songs for their birthdays.
What a stylish production.
During cafe time, Seiko will also play some of her original compositions.
Daisuke is finishing up the dish. His gaze conveys his sincere passion for cooking.
We asked Daisuke if there have been any changes in the food he makes since he came to Morimachi compared to his time in France and Osaka.
"While there are many colorful presentation techniques these days that use small amounts of various ingredients to create eye-catching dishes, my cooking uses fewer ingredients. Instead, I aim to make dishes that make the most of each individual ingredient, just as I did in the past.
So I don't think that much has changed.
Osaka is a big market, so it used to be easy to get a variety of ingredients and seasonings from all over the country. But you couldn't see the faces of the people who made them. But now, like the vegetables in the fields right in front of us, we're blessed with ingredients whose producers we can see. So we're conscious of making the most of our ingredients."
Over the past year, they have tried to use local, seasonal ingredients as much as possible, and have also been using agricultural products that are unique to Morimachi, such as corn, figs, and lettuce, in their dishes.
So, the theme of this article is Jiro persimmons. I actually used them last year as well, and used them as is in a salad.
"Persimmons are very difficult to use as an ingredient. They don't have a strong character."
He said the same thing as Nakajimaya, the maker of Jiro Kaki Pudding.
Even so, Daisuke attempted two dishes, a main dish and a dessert.
The dishes are made by a ceramic artist living in Morimachi. The orange gradation is beautiful.
"The main dish was braised beef shank with Jiro persimmon.
When stewing beef shank in red wine, we add Jiro persimmons in addition to herb vegetables to bring out the sweetness.
Two kinds of carrots, one pureed and the other slowly cooked, sautéed and then caramelized Jiro persimmon, and beef shank that was stewed so well it could be cut easily with a knife.
The puree is a yellow-orange color, the carrots are a red-orange color, the Jiro persimmon is a deep orange color with burnt brown spots, and the meat is a rich red-brown color reminiscent of rich wine. Just like the colors, the flavors of the ingredients also have a gradation when you put them in your mouth. The deliciousness of the four ingredients in one is so great that I couldn't help but sigh.
"The lunch course was also well received. In particular, the caramelized persimmons were surprising to locals who are familiar with Jiro persimmons, with some saying, 'You can eat persimmons like this?!' and some even saying, 'I'll try that at home.'"
Next came dessert, which was apparently even more difficult.
Jiro persimmons are made into marmalade (in French cuisine, a puree or jam made into a paste is called marmalade). It is paired with Earl Grey ice cream. The syrup used to soak the pound cake is also made with Jiro persimmon wine, a local specialty.
Although the colors are not flashy, this is also a dish with a beautiful gradation.
Marmalade has not only the gentle sweetness of Jiro persimmon, but also spices such as anise, giving it a somewhat oriental aroma. Combined with the flavor of Earl Grey, it left a mysterious aftertaste in the mouth.
The pound cake soaked in syrup made from Jiro persimmon wine also had a slightly bitter taste, perhaps due to the combination of ingredients, making it a challenging, adult dessert.
Chilled Jiro Kaki Wine has a sweet taste, so it is also recommended as an aperitif or dessert wine.
Unfortunately, I wasn't able to drink the wine as my interview continued afterwards, but I think it goes well with the dessert made with Jiro persimmons.
"French cuisine is thought to be intimidating, but I want people to feel more comfortable and able to enjoy it. That's why I named it French Restaurant."
I guess the two people who spoke to me shared their thoughts.
There are more repeat customers from the local area than they expected before the opening, and many of the customers are older and have no prior experience of French cuisine. A year has passed since the restaurant opened, and it is clear that the restaurant is loved and has high hopes from the locals.
The store's logo was written by the owner's eldest child, who is now 8 years old, when he was very young. It has a unique charm to it.
The name they chose for their shop, "noyau," means "seed" in French.
To me, the name of this shop seems to overlap with Morimachi's Jiro persimmon.
The young Jiro persimmon tree was discovered by chance at the end of the Edo period, and it later became a local specialty, even being presented as a gift to the Imperial family. The original tree, which was on the verge of dying, was healed and grafted, and the baton of life was passed on to it, making it a precious treasure.
It seemed to me that the connections between the Furuki family and the people, nature, culture and climate they encountered in this place have led to them taking firm root in the place, becoming loved and the seeds of their shop sprouting, and becoming more and more rooted in the land with each passing day.
The view of Satoyama that spreads out in front of the restaurant is something the couple loves. The sunset that day was also very beautiful.
This year's Jiro persimmon season has ended, and the restaurant has switched to dishes using winter ingredients that are in season.
However, they said they will be trying to create a menu using Jiro persimmons again next autumn. I am looking forward to seeing how their cooking and hospitality will evolve as they encounter even more people and ingredients.
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French restaurant Noyau
[Address] 4847-7 Ichinomiya, Morimachi, Shuchi District, Shizuoka Prefecture
[Business hours] 11:30-17:00
[Closed] Sunday
*If Monday is a public holiday, open on Sunday and closed on Monday
[TEL] 0538-74-7304
[URL]
https://www.instagram.com/noyau_mori?igsh=eDQxNjQ4Z25tZ3d1
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Morimachi is full of history, culture and abundant nature.
In addition to the Jiro persimmons, you're sure to encounter beautiful scenery and delicious ingredients throughout the seasons.
So, why don't you go out too?
Writer: Gohantsubu Labo Aoki Rika
Photos: Tsukasa Kozuka and Yoshihiko Konan