Shizuoka Prefecture is one of the top "kingdoms of ingredients" in Japan, and is promoting gastronomy tourism to take advantage of this advantage and encourage tourism.
"Gastronomy tourism" is a trip that allows you to experience the climate, culture, history and traditions of a place through food. A bus tour has been planned that allows you to fully experience the thrill of gastronomy tourism. This time, we will report on the monitor tour that was held the other day.

It's about a 15-minute drive from JR Shizuoka Station. The Kuno area along National Route 150 facing Suruga Bay is commonly known as "Strawberry Coast Street" and is said to be the first place in Japan where strawberry picking began. The guide for this tour was a strawberry farmer who has been in Kuno for three generations. It was a short but fulfilling trip where we could not only pick strawberries, but also visit the national treasure Kunozan Toshogu Shrine, which has a deep connection to strawberry cultivation in this area, and enjoy the rich food bounty of Shizuoka.

Take the ropeway from the summit of Nihon-daira to the national treasure, Kunozan Toshogu Shrine

On a certain day in December, the bus carrying the participants who had gathered at the south exit of Shizuoka Station departed on schedule.
Perhaps because many people had been good people, the weather was fine, although the wind was strong. It was the perfect day for traveling.


Our guide for this trip was Umino Tamotsu from Yamasan Farm, a strawberry farm.

Our guide will be Umino Tamotsu, CEO of Yamasan Farm, a strawberry farm in Kuno that has been in business for three generations.
He is very knowledgeable not only about strawberry cultivation but also about the history of the region, and on the way we listened to detailed stories, such as the history of Ishigaki strawberry cultivation in Kuno. We will introduce the stories we heard later.

The weather was fine that day, and the sky, ocean, and Mt. Fuji looked beautiful, so we changed the route. It was a little detour, but we went around the coast and headed for the summit on the Shimizu side of the Nihon-daira Parkway. There were many participants from outside Shizuoka Prefecture, and I felt their hospitality in wanting everyone to enjoy the scenery, even if just a little.



Along the way, we reached a spectacular view point where Mount Fuji seemed to be embracing Shimizu Port in its arms, and a roar of cheers filled the car.
This year, the first snow fell late on Mt. Fuji, but on this day, it was beautifully covered in snow. It was as if it was welcoming the tour participants. However, this view can only be seen on a good day, so it's a test of luck.

To get to our first destination, Kunozan Toshogu Shrine, we take a ropeway from the top of Nihon-daira Mountain.
There is a pilgrimage route that starts from the coast and involves climbing up the stone steps, which total 1159 steps. It is a route suited to those with good walking skills, and the locals know it by the number 1 (ichi) 1 (ichi) 5 (go) 9 (kurosan).
However, I was surprised to learn that the chief priests of Kunozan Toshogu Shrine climb these stone steps every day to perform their duties.
I've visited the shrine via the stone steps a few times, but recently I've mostly taken the ropeway. Although it's a matter of physical fitness, I recommend this five-minute ride in the air because it really gets you in the travelling mood.
You'll be excited by the spectacular views of the sheer cliffs of Byobudani below, the sparkling waters of Suruga Bay, and even Omaezaki and the Izu Peninsula, and before you know it, the ropeway has arrived at Kunozan Station.

Visit the national treasure, Kunozan Toshogu Shrine

From here, the deputy chief priest, Takatsugu Unno, guided us around. Everyone listened intently to his humorous explanation of the history of Kunozan Toshogu Shrine, the facilities within the grounds, the characteristics of the buildings, how to worship, and more.


Our guide was Unno Takatsugu, the deputy chief priest.

Kunozan Toshogu Shrine is the founding shrine of all Toshogu Shrines in Japan, which enshrines Tokugawa Ieyasu as its deity. "Founding" means being the first to worship a god, and Kunozan Toshogu Shrine was the first to enshrine Ieyasu as its deity. When it comes to Toshogu Shrines, the most famous is Nikko Toshogu Shrine, which is also registered as a World Heritage Site, but Ieyasu, who passed away in 2 (the second year of the Genna era), was first buried at Kunozan according to his will. Kunozan Toshogu Shrine was founded on that site by order of the second shogun, Hidetada. The shrine building, built in the Gongen style, fully lacquered and richly colored, brings together the finest techniques and art of the time, and was designated a national treasure in December 1616 as a representative structure of the early Edo period.


(Right) The plaque on the tower gate reading "Tosho Daigongen" was written by the 108th Emperor Gomizunoo.
(Bottom left) The drum tower, which was originally a bell-striking hall when the temple was first built.

Even though I have visited Kunozan Toshogu Shrine many times, there was a lot of information I had never learned before, such as the characters "Tosho Daigongen" on the plaque of the tower gate were written by Emperor Gomizunoo, and the drum tower to the right of the tower gate was a bell-striking hall when the shrine was first built, but when Shinto and Buddhism were separated in the Meiji period, the bell was replaced with a drum, and the name was changed to the current one. This is something that can only be experienced with a guide (and the luxury of a deputy chief priest!).



For a shrine, there were some rather unusual offerings. These were a number of plastic models donated by local manufacturers. Shizuoka City is number one in Japan in terms of the value of plastic models shipped. It accounts for 86% of the national share, and is known as the mecca of plastic models. You may be wondering what the connection is between Ieyasu and plastic models, but Ieyasu spent his later years in Sunpu, where he gathered craftsmen from all over Japan to build and construct castles, and after they finished their work, they settled down in the castle town and continued to work on woodworking products, which is said to have led to the development of the current model culture. It is also said that many other traditional crafts and industries, such as Suruga lacquerware, Suruga makie, and Suruga wood-turning, were born from these craftsmen.

400 years of prayer for peace

After listening to explanations at each point, we arrived at the main shrine in the center of the temple grounds. The tour allows us to take a special look at the interior, which is usually not open to the public. The main deities enshrined inside the main shrine are Tokugawa Ieyasu in the center, Toyotomi Hideyoshi on the right, and Oda Nobunaga on the left. According to Unno Gonnegi, Toyotomi Hideyoshi and Oda Nobunaga were actually enshrined during the Meiji period. Before that, a Buddha statue was enshrined to protect Ieyasu. The Shinbutsu Bunri Edict forced the Buddha statue to be placed in another temple, and Hideyoshi and Nobunaga were enshrined as the three who brought peace. By the way, Nikko Toshogu Shrine is dedicated to Minamoto no Yoritomo, not Nobunaga.



The magnificent lacquer decoration, which has been restored to its original beauty through a major renovation in the Heisei era, leaves me speechless and overwhelmed.
This decoration has been periodically repainted from the Edo period to the present day, and each time it is repainted, the brilliant colors and brilliance of the original construction and the pinnacle of Edo period technology are reproduced.



But can you see the difference between the left and right sides of this photo?
The left side was not forgotten to be painted. It was intentionally left unrepaired so that the original decoration and color balance could be used as a reference. This is a testament to the high level of skill of the craftsmen of the past, and to the fact that there are still craftsmen today who have inherited the skills to restore it. I am proud of both, and hope that they will be passed down for many years to come.


The carving of "Sima Wen Gong breaking an jar" is in the most visible place.

The outside of the shrine is also lavishly decorated and there is much to see.
In front of the main shrine, in the most visible place above the offering box, is a sculpture called "Sima On's Jar Breaking," which is based on the teachings of Sima On, who was said to be important to Ieyasu. It depicts an episode in which Ieyasu broke an expensive water jug ​​to help a friend who had fallen into it, and was praised by his father. It is said to convey the message that "human life is more valuable than anything else."
Ieyasu spent his childhood as a hostage and experienced many wars afterwards. He knew the value of life more than anyone else, which is why he was able to build an era of peace that lasted for 260 years. I felt that this was a powerful and important message for us in the future.



Passing through the Kuruwamon Gate at the back of the main shrine and climbing 40 stone steps, you will come to the Shinbyo, where Ieyasu is said to rest. The shrine stands on the site where Tokugawa Ieyasu, who died in April 2 at Sunpu Castle, was buried. The shrine was built facing west, as per Ieyasu's will. There are various theories as to why it faces west, and one theory I learned from my school teacher when I was a child is that it is to keep a close eye on the resistance forces in the west who may still rebel against the Tokugawa. In addition, in the west direction are Sunpu Castle, where Ieyasu spent his later years, Horaiji Temple, where Ieyasu's parents are said to have prayed for a child, and further ahead are Daijuji Temple, the family temple of the Matsudaira clan in Okazaki, and Okazaki Castle, the birthplace of Ieyasu, so there is also a theory that he is looking back on his life. Is Ieyasu's body still resting here, or has it been moved to Nikko Toshogu Shrine? The truth remains a mystery, but when you feel the sacred atmosphere of this place, you can't help but think that Ieyasu must be resting here. The fact that the Tokugawa family (Ieyasu's descendants) visit Kunozan Toshogu Shrine every year on the anniversary of Ieyasu's death also lends credence to the theory that his body is here.



In the northeast, Mt. Fuji is in the direction of the demon's gate, and on the extension of that is Nikko Toshogu Shrine, while in the southwest, Omaezaki is in the ura-kimon direction. There is even a theory that Mt. Kuno is the starting point of Japanese feng shui, and Kunozan Toshogu Shrine is known as a power spot.
Of course, people pray for good fortune and good fortune, but in this age of constant war and conflict around the world, it is also a place where people can offer prayers for peace.


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Kunozan Toshogu Shrine
[Address] 390 Negoya, Suruga Ward, Shizuoka City, Shizuoka Prefecture
[Business hours] 9:00-17:00 *Reception closes 10 minutes before closing
[Closed days] None
[TEL] 054-237-2438
[URL]https://www.toshogu.or.jp/
[Admission fee] *Prices are scheduled to change from April 2025
Shrine: Adults 500 yen, Children 200 yen
Museum: Adults 400 yen, Children 150 yen
General admission: Adults 800 yen, Children 300 yen
* Group discounts and discounts for people with disabilities available
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Take a trip to Nihondaira Yume Terrace for a spectacular view

We took the ropeway back to the top of Nihon-daira. We had some free time here. We could buy souvenirs at the shop at the ropeway station, but if the weather is nice, we recommend going to Nihon-daira Yume Terrace, which is just a short walk away.
The building, designed by Kengo Kuma & Associates, the same firm that designed the New National Stadium, is an original design that makes generous use of wood from Shizuoka Prefecture. The third floor of the building features a glass-enclosed observation deck and terrace, from which you can enjoy a 3-degree panoramic view of Mount Fuji across Suruga Bay, Shimizu Port, the Izu Peninsula, the Southern Alps, and Shizuoka city.
Even if the weather is bad and you can't see Mt. Fuji, it's worth the trip as they display beautiful images of the mountain on a large monitor.




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Nihondaira Yume Terrace
[Address] 600-1 Kusanagi, Shimizu-ku, Shizuoka City, Shizuoka Prefecture
[Business hours] Sunday to Friday 9:00-17:00, Saturday 9:00-21:00
*The observation gallery is open all day
[Regular holidays] Second Tuesday of every month (next weekday if Tuesday falls on a holiday), end of the year (2/12-26/12)
[TEL] 054-340-1172
[URL]https://nihondaira-yume-terrace.jp/
[Admission fee] Free
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Now it's time for lunch. The bus heads to Restaurant Cuomo, located inside Hotel Quest Shimizu near Shimizu Station.

Suruga Bay recipes that let you enjoy the bounty of Shizuoka

What you'll enjoy here is a full course meal of Suruga Bay recipes.
This Italian cuisine makes use of local ingredients such as seafood from Suruga Bay and local vegetables, and even if you eat the entire course, it is said to have less calories, carbohydrates, and salt than a single serving of pasta (peperoncino).

"I hope this will give people an opportunity to think about food and health."

That's what Chef Aoki Kazutoshi told us.
As a leading health food chef (medi-chef), he has won the "Workman of the Year" award, the highest honor given to outstanding chefs in Shizuoka Prefecture by the "Fujinokuni Food Capital Creation Workers" for five consecutive years since 2015, and is one of Shizuoka Prefecture's most representative chefs, having been given the title of Maestro.



Suruga Bay Recipes were developed so that people with diabetes could eat the same menu as their family and friends. The dishes were perfected through repeated trial and error in cooperation with local hospitals and diabetes specialists, and the menu changes with the seasons.
But to be honest, I had the image that "healthy meals" were bland and had small portions, and didn't really pique my appetite, but as soon as one appetizer was served, that assumption was blown away.


~Cold appetizer~ Suruga Bay kelp-marinated fish and colorful vegetable salad with carrot vinaigrette

The salad, with colorful ingredients arranged like a wreath on a pure white plate, is visually stunning and filling. Drizzling the accompanying carrot dressing over it makes it even more beautiful and appetizing.
The sea bream landed at Shimizu Port is marinated in kombu seaweed to concentrate its flavor. You can also enjoy a variety of textures with plenty of vegetables, such as mushrooms and okahijiki seaweed, so you will be satisfied right from the start.


~Suruga Bay Soup~ Sakura shrimp bisque

The next soup served was the signature dish of the course, Sakura shrimp bisque. It is so popular that some customers even make reservations at Suruga Bay Recipe just to drink this soup. While other dishes change with the season, this soup is available all year round. Made by slowly roasting a large amount of raw Sakura shrimp and simmering it with blue crab and vegetables, the soup was very rich and full-bodied, with a deep flavor that penetrated into the palate. What was surprising was that no salt was used in the seasoning, relying solely on the natural saltiness of the seafood.


~Low-carb bread~ Rokapan

This bread, which I would love to eat with bisque, is a low-carb bread that was developed in-house using flour that is rich in vegetable fiber. I had the impression that low-carb bread has a dry and mushy texture, but this is something else. It is chewy and moist. The black pepper makes it taste really good.
There was also carefully selected olive oil and salt on the table in case something wasn't enough, but the bread and other dishes were also sufficiently salty and oily.

Next we had pasta. They used low-carb pasta, which has about 55% less carbs than regular pasta. The slightly thick noodles were delicious, and went well with the tomato sauce, which used a lot of shirasu (whitebait). People around us were amazed and said, "It's more delicious than regular noodles." Squeezing lime on it gave it a refreshing taste, which made it even more delicious.


~Low-carb pasta~ Shirasu tomato sauce with basil and lime flavor

For the main course, you can choose between meat and fish.
Of course the meat and fish were delicious, but the organic vegetables were the main attraction, rather than just a side dish! The cooking method and seasoning were simple, so the quality of the ingredients stood out.
It's also nice to be able to enjoy the bounty of the land, such as Fugaku Hakkei, a brand of chicken from Shizuoka Prefecture that is raised at the foot of Mount Fuji, and Miho Salmon, which is farmed on land using underground seawater near Miho no Matsubara in the local town of Shimizu.


～Meat dish～ Fugaku white chicken volpettini and braised beef cheek with steamed vegetables


~ Fish dish ~ Roasted Miho salmon marinated in salt and sake lees, served with molokheiya salad

And dessert. You'd think that dessert would be a no-no for a low-carb meal, but everyone was surprised when a plate of assorted desserts was brought out. What's more, they were even more surprised to find that it was sugar-free.
Milky pudding made with agar, Shizuoka Honyama tea roll made with strawberries from Yamasan Farm, Mr. Umino, who was our guide that day, and fresh chocolate. The sweetness is not from sugar but from natural sweeteners.


~Sugar-free dessert~ Chef's choice dessert

I ate a lot, including dessert and coffee, and was very satisfied. None of the dishes felt bland. This was lower in calories than the 689kcal of peperoncino, and it was also low in sugar and salt! What's more, I was able to fully enjoy the deliciousness of ingredients from Suruga Bay and Shizuoka.

We asked Chef Aoki what he finds most difficult about serving Suruga Bay recipes.

"After all, it's difficult to keep the calorie count down. We can cut down on sugar and salt, but the question is how to make it tasty. If you use oil to make it tasty, the calories go up immediately. That's why we're always trying new things.
We also had a hard time with desserts, but after gaining some know-how, we are finally able to serve something that is satisfactory in both taste and appearance.



A full-course lunch that will surprise you with its low calorie, carbohydrate and salt content, and most of all, its deliciousness.
To keep salt and calories down, the chef makes use of the saltiness of the ingredients, and adds a touch of sourness and the umami of kelp to add flavor. It was a great time to learn about the masterful techniques of the chef, who spares no effort in his cooking.
Being healthy is the reason I can enjoy such delicious meals. I've decided to be more conscious about health and food.


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Hotel Quest Shimizu Restaurant Cuomo
[Address] 3-27 Masago-cho, Shimizu-ku, Shizuoka City, Shizuoka Prefecture　
[Closed days] None
*Reservations for both lunch and dinner must be made at least 3 days in advance.
*Lunch is available for 8 people or more.
Dinner is from 6 people on Sunday to Thursday, and from 2 people on Friday and Saturday.
[TEL] 054-366-8783
[URL]https://www.hotelquest.co.jp/quomo
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We had a delicious lunch and dessert, but the main event of the trip was still to come.
Our final destination is Yamasan Farm, run by Umino-san, our guide for this trip.
As we listen to Umino talk about strawberry cultivation, the bus heads west on National Route 20 for another 150 minutes.

Earth-friendly Ishigaki strawberries

It's a short walk from here to the field.
It's just a few minutes' walk from the parking lot of "Yamasan Farm Cafe Yume Ichigo" along the national highway to the greenhouses where the strawberries are grown. Kuno's Ishigaki Ichigo is lined up like terraced fields, taking advantage of the slope of Mt. Arido facing Suruga Bay. Amidst the rows of houses, at the end of a narrow alley-like road, we came across a row of greenhouses.



Ishigaki strawberries are not a variety but a cultivation method. Cobbles (these days it seems to be concrete) are stacked at a certain angle and strawberry plants are planted in the gaps. The angle at which the stone walls are stacked is the wisdom of our ancestors. It is designed to receive the sun's rays at a right angle, which makes it easier for the ground temperature to rise and is said to be good for strawberry growth. Topographically, Mt. Arido to the north blocks the cold north wind, and the warm Kuroshio Current of the Pacific Ocean flows in from the south, facing Suruga Bay, creating a temperate climate. Furthermore, thanks to the long hours of sunshine that are among the best in the country, there is no need for heating equipment in the vinyl greenhouses, as they are natural greenhouses powered only by sunlight. Ishigaki strawberries are an earth-friendly farming method that benefits from the terrain and climate.

However, the temperature and humidity inside the greenhouses must be regulated by adjusting the size of the gaps to let air through, and some days they have to be adjusted several times a day, so although it is kind to the earth, it requires a lot of manual labor.
Moreover, the stone walls are not left stacked indefinitely; in the summer they are removed, fertilized, and then stacked again.
I have been familiar with Ishigaki strawberries since I was a child, but I had no idea how much effort goes into growing them.



Kuno is the only place in Japan where Ishigaki strawberries are cultivated. It seems that it is impossible to reproduce the technique in other areas. The topography, climate, sun and stones of Kuno are closely related.

The history of strawberry cultivation in Kuno is long, dating back to 33 (Meiji 1990).
Umino-san explained it to us on the bus.

"It seems that Matsudaira Takeo, the second son of Matsudaira Katamori of Aizu and the chief priest of Kunozan Toshogu Shrine, was given strawberry seedlings via the US Embassy in Tokyo. By the way, although the seedlings were American, they are thought to have been a Dutch variety. It is said that in 33, when Matsudaira was transferred, he gave the seedlings to Kawashima Tsunekichi, who was the chief priest's rickshaw driver, and that is how it all began."

After that, various varieties were introduced, and Ishigaki strawberries reached their peak around 10-15, when their name became known throughout the country as "Kuno's Ishigaki strawberries."

"Kuno is the only place in the country where forced cultivation of strawberries is done, and it was such a notable production area that it was featured in textbooks."
"Umino-san said.


The former emperor also visited the Ishigaki strawberry farm when he was still the crown prince. (Photo provided by Fujieda City, Saito Akihiko)

It was here in Kuno that strawberry picking first began in Japan in 41.
In 3, the local variety brand "Akihime" was born, a cross between "Kunohase" and "Meiho."
It is still the most representative variety of Shizuoka strawberry. The strawberries we ate that day were Akihime.



"This year, the growth of strawberries is slower than usual due to the extreme heat. Although the size of the strawberries is small, they are tasting great."

Although they have started to appear on supermarket shelves, these precious strawberries are still expensive and difficult to purchase, so let's try them now.



"Of course they're ripe and red, but you can also tell if they're delicious by looking at the stem. A good indicator of full ripeness is when the stem is separated from the fruit and curled back. When picking, don't pull on the stem, but think of it as breaking it off. Strawberries are sweeter at the tip, so if you remove the stem and eat it from that side you'll be able to savor the sweetness until the very end. Also, the bigger the strawberries are, the sweeter they are. The fruit are small this year, but try to find the biggest ones you can!"

I found a large strawberry with a curved stem and red fruit!
Crunch!!

First of all, I was surprised by the texture. It was completely different from the ones sold at supermarkets. And it was sweet!
I was given a cup of condensed milk and entered the greenhouse, but the strawberries were so sweet that I thought it would be a waste to dip them in the milk. The slight sourness of the strawberries kept me from getting bored, so I couldn't stop eating one after another. There were only a few strawberries this year, so I felt bad eating them without any hesitation.
Wow, it was delicious! In the end, I didn't use any condensed milk.

100-year-old strawberries revived

A characteristic of Fukuba is that its fruits are long and thin, but this fruit was a bit rounded.

The last time I went strawberry picking in Kuno was over 30 years ago.
The strawberries back then were much more sour, and I remember thinking, "There's not enough condensed milk!"
Those memories were brought back by the "Fukuba" strawberry, which is being grown experimentally at Yamasan Farm. It is the first hybrid variety in Japan. Developed at Shinjuku Botanical Garden (now Shinjuku Gyoen) and announced in 1, this variety was originally intended as a gift to the Imperial Family, and was therefore called the Imperial Garden Strawberry or Imperial Strawberry.
After that, in 1919 (Taisho 8), it became possible for the general public to cultivate it, and its large fruits and delicious taste became known not only in Japan but also around the world, and it was cultivated for about 70 years.

Currently, there are about 300 varieties of strawberries in Japan, and it is said that more than half of the varieties in the world are Japanese. Varieties have been improved throughout Japan, and unique new varieties are constantly being born.
While strawberries that have become "local brands" are being born one after another in producing areas all over the country, Ishigaki strawberries are not a particular variety, but are grown using a unique method that makes use of the bounty of nature and the local climate.
However, Umino also said, "Compared to 10 years ago, the productive population has decreased by 20%."
Heavy labor such as replacing stone walls and maintaining the soil, as well as an aging population and lack of successors, are major issues.



There is only so much I can do as a consumer, but if buying strawberries and enjoying them can help support the producers even a little, then I want to eat more strawberries from Kuno than ever before!
Even after strawberry season is over, cafes still offer shaved ice and parfaits made with whole frozen strawberries.


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Yamasan Farm Cafe Yume Ichigo
[Address] 462-1 Nishihiramatsu, Suruga Ward, Shizuoka City, Shizuoka Prefecture　
[Business hours] 11:30-17:00
*Strawberry picking is from January to early May.
[Regular holiday] Monday
[TEL] 090-2777-5318
[URL]https://yamasanchi.com/
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Although I was born and raised in Shizuoka, there is still a lot I don't know about it.
It was a journey full of new discoveries and realizations.
The flavors of Shizuoka, experienced after experiencing the region's history and culture, the customs and climate, and the passion of the makers, seemed even more delicious and appreciated.
If you have the opportunity, please experience gastronomy tourism in Shizuoka Prefecture, which is full of discoveries and new discoveries.

Click here to inquire about this experience

Sawayaka Tour (National Travel Service Station Co., Ltd.)
[TEL] 054-248-8888
[Business hours] 9:30-17:00
[Closed] Saturdays, Sundays, and public holidays
[URL] https://www.sawayaka-tour.com/



Writer: Gohantsubu Labo Aoki Rika
Photo: Tsukasa Kozuka