When you think of Lake Hamana, you think of "eel." This is a local specialty that everyone knows, but Lake Hamana, a brackish lake that connects to the Enshu Nada Sea, has many more treasured delicacies that only a few know about. For example, oysters, nori seaweed, Domangani crab, and soft-shelled turtle... This time, we focused on "oysters" and "soft-shelled turtle," which are in season in winter, and explored the secrets of their deliciousness. Of course, we also visited a restaurant where you can eat special dishes that can only be tasted in the area.

With a rich taste,
The meat is thick and satisfying to eat.
Does not shrink even when exposed to fire
"Oysters from Lake Hamana"

One day in January, at 1:6am, before sunrise, the Yagita Oyster Shop's boat sets sail for Lake Hamana from the Imakiriguchi boat pier at the lake's entrance. The boat heads to Lake Shonai in the northern part of Lake Hamana and arrives at the oyster racks where the oysters are to be harvested. The boat slides in between the racks, leans out, and one after another, the rings packed with oysters are hauled onto the boat. In no time the boat is full of oysters, and by that time the sun has come out. We visited Yagita Oyster Shop, which was founded in 20 and has been cultivating oysters in Maisaka for over 100 years, to cover a busy day in the life of the 11-person team that runs the oyster farming business, from harvesting to washing, sorting, shuck-ing, and shipping.
　The history of oyster farming in Lake Hamana is said to have begun around 20, and many others followed suit, with over 50 oyster farmers in Maisaka. Currently, there are eight oyster farmers in Maisaka, 8 in Arai, and a total of 11 in Yutō and Shirasu. Although production volume is by no means large, Lake Hamana oysters are highly regarded for their rich flavor, thick meat, and the fact that they do not shrink even when cooked.
Yagita's oyster racks are dotted in 25 places between the entrance to Lake Hamana and its depths. "As the oysters grow, we move them three times from the entrance to areas with abundant plankton. In late September, we move them to the northern part of the lake where plankton is particularly abundant, using fresh water flowing in from the river, and wait for the time to harvest." This is a major feature of oyster farming in Lake Hamana, and the secret to their deliciousness. Apparently, feeding on plenty of plankton helps the oysters grow into meaty, rich-tasting oysters.


Arrived at Oyster Shed No. 3 on Lake Shonai


Pulling up the rings one by one


"These oysters were seeded in late July two years ago.
It takes about a year and a half for the fruit to grow," says fifth-generation farmer Shoichi Yagita.


About an hour and a half after departure, we returned to the pier.
The process of removing the oysters from the rings and bringing them onto land began.


The harvest for this day was 15 baskets, which amounted to
Over 3000 to 3700 units. These are today's shipments and pre-orders.

The landed oysters are taken to a nearby workshop where they are first washed thoroughly. This takes about two hours. After that, they are sorted one by one by size. This takes about three hours. After this process, the oysters are handed over one by one to the peelers, who begin the peeling process. The peelers are all veterans with 2 to 3 years of experience, and it only takes a few seconds to peel one. They peel so smoothly it's satisfying to watch. By the way, they start peeling at 30am, take a break in between, and apparently it takes until 40pm in the afternoon. The shucked oysters are washed and sorted once more. Only the best quality oysters are bagged and shipped.


The agricultural vegetable washer introduced last year is playing an important role


Check size, sort and remove empty shells


Veteran peelers peel one after another.


The concept of YAGITA OYSTER is "A feeling of happiness in just one oyster."


Wash and pack in bags

"It's important to judge the timing of the harvest. When the flesh is pale yellow it's time to harvest. If it's white or transparent it means it's too moist and isn't ready to be harvested yet," he said, showing us the freshly shucked oysters that were pale yellow and looked delicious. Still, it became clear that oyster farming on Lake Hamana is all time-consuming manual work. All of the people involved are professionals in their field, and are locals who gather during the season from the end of November to the end of March. "We're able to do this thanks to the cooperation of the locals," Yagita said.
"Their rich flavor and thick texture mean they don't shrink even when cooked," says Yagita Oyster Shop's "Lake Hamana Oysters." They are shipped to a dozen restaurants and private fish shops in the prefecture, high-end restaurants outside the prefecture, and markets. There is also a direct sales store, and on this day, locals were coming to buy oysters before 10am. Some people come all the way from far away, and some even come from famous production areas because they prefer Lake Hamana oysters. The national share of Lake Hamana oysters is said to be 0.2%, but the deliciousness of the oysters is testified to by the customers who visit restaurants and direct sales stores who look forward to the season. By the way, they are fully booked every year from November to December, just after the season begins. From January, the oysters calm down a bit, and they are said to be even bigger and tastier. The best time to buy them is from January to March.
　There are many ways to eat oysters, such as grilling, frying, and hotpot, but Yagita's recommendation is "marinated in oil." Oysters are boiled in soy sauce, mirin, sake, and sugar to make a sweet and spicy sauce, then marinated in olive oil, garlic, chili pepper, and ginger confit oil, and left to sit in the refrigerator for two days. They are delicious as is, on toast, in pasta, or with stir-fried rice.


I bought it and tried it right away. It was plump and meaty.
It was so juicy, just one bite made me feel happy.




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Yagita Oyster Shop
Address: 18-1 Maisaka, Maisaka-cho, Chuo-ku, Hamamatsu City
Business hours: 9:00-16:30 (late November to mid-April)
Regular holiday / Irregular holiday
Phone/053-592-0485
Official website/https://yagitaoyster1922.jimdofree.com/
Sale: 1 yen for 5000kg, 500 yen for 2500g (containing about 33 pieces). Smaller sizes have more pieces and are 1 yen for 4600kg, 500 yen for 2300g.
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*Oysters sold for eating raw are sterilized and washed after harvesting, but Lake Hamana oysters do not shrink when heated, so they are sold as is for cooking. The farms are nearby and the oysters are harvested and shipped immediately after shucked, so they are very fresh. Local restaurants serve them to customers on the same day.

It takes 3 to 4 years when cultivated outdoors.
Growing with the rhythm of nature
Recognized by famous restaurants
"Lake Hamana Soft-shelled Turtle"

"Soft-shelled turtle hotpot" is a seasonal winter dish. Hattori Nakamura Yobetsujo, the restaurant that is said to be the first to farm soft-shelled turtles in Japan, is located in Maisaka, Hamamatsu City. The founder started farming soft-shelled turtles in Fukagawa, Tokyo in 12, and then built a large-scale farm on the shores of Lake Hamana in 33. Today, the farm farms hundreds of thousands of turtles per year. Its customers include famous high-end restaurants, such as Kyoto's Oichi, a famous soft-shelled turtle restaurant. This is the one and only farm that has been recognized by professionals. Incidentally, when soft-shelled turtle farming began in the Meiji era, demand was still low, so they also started farming eels at the same time. This is also the first time in Japan that the farm farmed eels.
We were shown around a vast turtle farm of about 5000m2 in Maisaka, and another farm of about 100m3, with a total of more than 4 ponds. Weeds grow all around, and aquatic plants grow in the pond. It was a bit surprising to see turtles being raised in the open, without a roof or a greenhouse. "We start from laying eggs, and when the parent turtles lay their eggs in the sand, we take them to a hatching facility and let them hatch. The only time we have human intervention is during the hatching process, and after we release them into the pond, everything is left to nature, so weeds and aquatic plants grow there. The water temperature in the pond is also left natural, and we don't heat it up," says Yasumasa Suzuki. This is called "open-air farming," and is the Hattori Nakamura Turtle Farm's biggest commitment. It takes XNUMX to XNUMX years to raise the turtles without giving them too much stress, and they end up with soft meat and no bad smell.


There are several ponds spread across the vast grounds.
The warm climate around Lake Hamana is said to be ideal for cultivating soft-shelled turtles.


They move to different ponds depending on their growth, and the fish in this pond are of shipping size.

While listening to this explanation, a fleet of light trucks arrived. The team is made up of six elite field workers, and in the morning they have an important task of "picking up" the soft-shelled turtles. They wear boots that reach almost to the soles of their feet, and hold oversized farm forks. As soon as they enter the pond, they stick the forks into the water to check if there are any soft-shelled turtles. "If you can hear a tapping sound and feel something, that means there's a turtle there. It feels softer than a stone," says field chief Yoshizawa Subaru. Within 6 minutes, they had picked up 30 soft-shelled turtles. The team also mows the grass and maintains the pond, and in order to cultivate safe and secure soft-shelled turtles, they do everything by hand without using herbicides. Of course, they don't use any artificial chemicals, and instead feed the turtles with a proprietary blend of organic feed that is a company secret.


The pond is bowl-shaped and reaches knee-deep in its deepest parts.


Using a large fork, they find the turtles and pick them up one by one.


Soft-shelled turtles hibernate when the water temperature drops below 15°C, and spend about half the year in hibernation.


Chief Yoshizawa Subaru

The collected soft-shelled turtles are transported to the shipping area, where they are sorted. The client restaurant and the Toyosu market each have different requirements for the size of the turtles they want, so they are sorted in 100g increments, with the shipping size being between 600g and 1.2kg. The smaller ones are returned to the pond. After sorting, they are packed. They are separated into those to be picked up by restaurants and those to be shipped.


The selection process involves checking not only size, but also color, movement, and scratches.


Yasumasa Suzuki, who guided us around, is in charge of sorting and shipping.


They have strong jaws and once they bite they won't let go.
Apparently, he's basically timid and cautious. But he has a surprisingly cute face!

"The parts you eat are the hands, feet, neck, and the turtle's fin around the shell. The turtle's fin has a texture similar to konnyaku and is delicious when cooked in a hotpot. You don't eat the shell, but it makes a great broth." Hattori Nakamura Turtle Farm also sells cut turtles for hotpot, and if you order by phone, they will prepare the turtle that was butchered on the day. It costs 900 yen (600-7000 servings) for 2g (about 3g net weight) with the shell, so it's a great deal. They also sell their own original turtle soup, turtle soup curry, and supplements. Later, I made the soup into a rice porridge that I was told was recommended, and it had no odor at all, a very refined taste, and I was very satisfied with the luxurious feeling. When you think of turtles, you probably think of them as a nutritious tonic, but they are also rich in amino acids, collagen, and vitamins, and are said to be effective for beauty and health.


I touched it hesitantly and found that the emperor part was a little soft.
The legs are squishy, ​​but the shell and stomach are hard.


At the back of the shipping area, tanks of soft-shelled turtles sorted by size are lined up.


They also sell it cut into pieces, so you can easily enjoy turtle hotpot at home.


The soup is also recommended for rice porridge, rice dishes, and chawanmushi.


"Soft-shelled turtle soup curry" is a Japanese-style soft-shelled turtle soup.
The base also contains chicken and bonito kelp soup.


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Hattori Nakamura Turtle Farm
Address: 2621-101 Maisaka, Maisaka-cho, Chuo-ku, Hamamatsu City
Business hours (sales hours) / 8:00-16:00 *For cut soft-shelled turtle, please contact us by the day before
Closed on Saturdays, Sundays and public holidays
Phone/053-592-0020
Official website/https://www.hattori-suppon.co.jp/
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At a Japanese restaurant by the lake
Enjoy Lake Hamana and the Enshu Nada Sea.
Seasonal flavors that are best enjoyed now
"Oysters" and "Soft-shelled Turtles"

We visited Hamanabo, a popular restaurant with locals and tourists alike, to try the seafood that Hamamatsu is proud of, from oysters, soft-shelled turtle, eel, and mud crab from Lake Hamana to pufferfish, conger eel, and whitebait from the Enshu Sea. The oysters used at this restaurant are "Hamanakako Oyster YAGITA OYSTER" from Yagita Oyster Shop, and the soft-shelled turtles are also sourced from Hattori Nakamura Turtle Farm. They have been friends for a long time, and we can vouch for their quality.


Upon entering the entrance, you are greeted by a huge aquarium, which contains mud crabs.


Soft-shelled turtles are also on standby

　"Lake Hamana oysters have a strong flavor and don't shrink even when cooked. They're pudding-like and don't get runny. They're fresh because they're only available in small quantities," says owner Ken Okada. This means that the Hamamatsu area has the delicious oysters all to itself, and you can't eat them unless you come here.
The first dish they prepared for us was the "Oyster and Hippopotamus Rice Bowl," a dish that can only be found in this area. Oysters from Lake Hamana are grilled in eel sauce, then served with onions from Enshu on rice covered in nori seaweed from Lake Hamana, topped with mandarin orange peel. The taste differs depending on the restaurant, and at "Hamanabou," they use a secret sauce from their charcoal-grilled "eel kabayaki." First, we took a bite. The oysters were plump and meaty, and the delicious flavor of the oysters and the eel sauce spread throughout our mouths. Who knew oysters and eel sauce could go so well together! The aroma of the mandarin orange peels was a refreshing accent. This definitely went down well with the rice. The grilled oysters that came next were also meaty and satisfying, and the flavor of the oysters stood out. This too was slurped down in one go. Hamanabo also serves fried oysters and oyster hotpots, but Okada says, "If you want to taste the original flavor of oysters directly, oyster tempura is the way to go." I'll definitely try it next time.


Grilled oysters with secret sauce


"Oyster and hippopotamus rice bowl set meal" 2300 yen　
* Limited time offer from early December to early March (planned)


"2 grilled oysters with shells, a Lake Hamana specialty" 1550 yen

Soft-shelled turtle is basically served as a course (reservation required) and can be enjoyed in hot pot, fried or rice porridge. "Hattori's soft-shelled turtle has no unpleasant smell. It's available all year round, but winter is definitely the best time. It's fatty because it's stored up fat during hibernation. The liver is also large." Apparently everything is eaten except the head and shell, and the fatty limbs are deep-fried. It is said to be rich in gelatin. The broth for the hot pot is made only from the soft-shelled turtle, and the ingredients are simple, consisting of spring onions, mitsuba and shiitake mushrooms. You can enjoy the refined taste of the soft-shelled turtle itself.


"Soft-shelled Turtle Course" from 14000 yen

The menu at Hamanabo mainly features seasonal seafood landed at the local Maisaka Port, and in winter they also serve courses of locally caught tiger pufferfish and in summer Maisaka conger eel. The summer-only "raw whitebait bowl" served with dashi soy sauce is a big hit every year, and there are many fans of the grilled eel, which is crisp on the outside and fluffy inside.
Lake Hamana and the Enshu Nada Sea are truly treasure troves of seafood. Enjoy the exceptionally fresh local flavors that can only be found here.


"In winter, flathead and red sea bream are good, and in summer, amberjack are good," he says.
Ken Okada, who has been in this business for 34 years


There is a store on the shore of Lake Hamana.




On the way out, outside the store, there were whitebait, soft-shelled turtle, oyster and hippopotamus rice bowls,
I found a vending machine selling grilled eel! It looks like a good souvenir.




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Hamanabo
Address: 3101 Bentenjima, Maisaka-cho, Chuo-ku, Hamamatsu City
営業時間/11:30～14:00、17:00～20:30(最終入店20:00)
Closed: Tuesdays and the second Wednesday of every month
Phone/053-592-1676
Official website/https://www.hamanabo.co.jp/
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Writer: Shihoko Umino
Photo: Yoko Fujimoto